Agressive Climbing Shoes and Smearing

Here is a little background first:

I started climbing in June 2014 and picked up the La Sportiva Tarantulace shoes as good beginner shoes. I have really enjoyed the comfortable fit and the fact I can stay in them for 3 hours or so during sessions at the gym. More recently I have had problems with the shoes getting sloppy around my feet. After 6~7 routes my feet get sweaty and the shoes will not stay put. I think the shoes have stretched a bit but not by a lot. My toes are still at the front of the shoe.

At first I thought grease and grime had built up in the shoes so I washed them. I noticed a big improvement in the grip of the rubber but my feet still slip around in the shoes. It feels almost like there is no friction between my foot and the inside of the shoe. I have been looking at the La Sportiva Katana Lace as a possible replacement. I have tried on several sizes and have found a good fit.

Here are my main questions:

When I am trying on the Katanas I am not able to smear my foot on the wall as I normally can with the Tarantulace. Is this normal? Will the shoes flex a little over time or are these shoes not designed for smearing? Does anyone have any experience with these shoes (or any aggressive shoe for that matter)? Are more aggressive shoes possible to smear in?

Hey!

I wear the Testarossas (Also Sportivas) and smear in them fine. I climb a lot of slabs in them...although obviously don't be stupid like I was and wear them for 8 pitches of slab because they are the only shoes you own. I take them off between climbs though, they are not comfortable to stand in. My husband has the Solutions and has smeared in those fine as well. Now, are they going to be as good as a smearing specific shoe like...the TC Pros or something? Probably not, but if you are doing mostly sport and bouldering or gym climbing they will be great!

I am a 5.10 kind of guy, they just seem to fit my foot best. If you're looking for an all around sport climbing shoe the anasazi VCS is a fantastic choice and is quite capable for smearing. Right now i'm climbing in a pair of Dragons but they are more aggressive for overhanging routes and precision, though I can smear on the wall with them as well if need be.

When new katana laces/miura vcs (downturned shoes) dont smear very well as they have 3 strikea against them

- a stiff sole (p3 system)
- a bit of a downturn
- rubber that is optimized for edging

if you resole with c4, they smear much better

However its still quite hard to get a true friction smear where you put the entire front sole of the shoe (using the notch behind your big toe to lock on any bumps) with those shoes ...

Katana laces and miura VCSs are known as shoes where you stand on tiny crystals for slab, nor friction smearing generally

And sizing them tight, boulderig style, just makes it harder and more painful to smear

Ive got 8+ pairs of katanas and miuras and the Miura VCS resoled with C4 is my goto winter slab shoe

Partner last week following up my lead on a smeary/steming open corner ...

Thanks for the help everyone!

It seems like there is no "one-stop" shoe that covers all types of climbing. When you all go climbing do you usually carry multiple sets of shoes and switch out between different climbs?

This next summer my wife and I plan on climbing outside more, maybe trying a few multi-pitch routes. When you take your shoes off between pitches do you wear another set of shoes (like approach shoes) to prevent your feet from getting injured if your partner takes a fall and pulls you into the rock?

TMW - if you climb long enough, you will build up a collection of shoes that work well at various types of climbing. It's just part of the fun of this addiction.

This means sometimes you will bring multiple pairs of shoes to the climbing area. Maybe a comfy pair for a long moderate route, and a tight pair for some single pitch testpiece you plan to try later in the day. Certainly a multi-day road trip will call for extra shoes, e.g. around here in the summer I find ways to get my shoes wet in the rain.

While most of my shoes are comfy enough to keep them on while belaying, it's worth noting that the only foot injury I ever got was due to being barefoot at the base. I wasn't pulled into the rock, but rather stubbed my toe (broke it) stepping quickly from rock to rock. I see lots of folks keep their toes in their climbing shoes and just pull the heels off to relieve the pressure. In retrospect I should have done that.

Most climber out here who climb more than easy moderates tend to take 2 pairs of shoes for cragging

A more comfy "warm up" shoe that you also use when lapping moderates, this saves wear on the $$$$ "good pair"

And a top notch pair for their hardest climbs

An old trick is to use resoles for the "warm up" pair especially if they are leather and have stretched over time

Long Multi is where one agonizes over show choices ... You want somethig comfortable enough to not kill your feet, but gives you enough confidence to get you through the harder pitches

Personally i use velcros which i can take off after every pitch

Its also a good reason to at least TR thr hardet stuff in yr comfy shoes, itll help you on long multi when you can only bring a single pair

;)

There is some good info on these 2 sites, but the most important thing about a climbing shoe is that it fits your foot well. For smearing you will want a soft/sensitive shoe I like the 5.10 moccs, which will generally not be as effective for edging/pockets.

outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing…
gearinstitute.com/climbing/…

Climb in them for a month, they'll smear fine. Great compromise between overly aggressive, super edgy, and a smear tastic shoe. I climb a lot at the New, and there's some made up bullshit feet to be found on most routes. They work wonderfully.