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 ADVANCED
South Peak - West Face
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The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Front C T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 

Agony 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hale & Lyon - 1968
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Agony is the appealing crack line sandwiched between Triple S and Crack of Dawn. Commonly done in two pitches but best as a single rope-stretcher. Climb the face up to the crack, follow this through the overhand and into the chimney. Belay here or follow the easier chimney to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Comments on Agony Add Comment
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By Tom Cecil
Feb 17, 2013

Once you've done the original line try 'Agony till Dawn" this variation allows you to slide left just after the chockstone and right before the chimney climbing--you're just past the crux of Crack of dawn--follow the beautiful hand and finger cracks to shuts.

By Kirby
From: DC
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really fun climb. This pitch has a little bit of everything--thin cracks, crimps, bouldery moves, hand jams, bulge-pulling, and chimneying/off-width. A nice long pitch if you link it up to the Crack of Dawn anchors.

The direct start is very reasonable (G/PG), with a few pitons as well as good gear placements.

There's a wee chockstone right on the edge of the crack that's kinda creepy to stand on. Be sure to bring enough runners, as some placements (especially in the chimney) are deep.

Also, my 70 meter rope got me down to the ledge about 6 feet up on Triple S. Have your belayer tie a knot in the end of your rope though before the lower/tie them yourself for the rappel, because it's close.