Agony Arch 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Robbins, 1970's |
| Season: | All year |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 3, 2007 |
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Aaron Reed cruising,enjoying a nice morning warmup...
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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>
Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description One of the finest crack lines at the Riverside Quarry, this is located on the slightly overhung face around and left from Hump or Dump.
Climb the vertical thin/hand crack as it arches up and left and gets slowly wider and steeper, the crux towards the end as you either jam wide fists near the lip or struggle to get smaller, better jams deeper inside the crack which flares; handrailing the lip is another option if you have the juice.
A local classic that would see much more traffic if in another locale.
Protection Gear to 4", chain anchors
Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riversid...
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BETA PHOTO: Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
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Ryan on Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
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Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
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By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Dec 10, 2010
| Is it possible to access the anchor from above to set up a toprope on this climb? |
By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Feb 15, 2011
| Not really... there are 3 bolts above the vertical section of the crack that you might be able to set something up to work that part & maybe some of the arch. |
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 8, 2012
| This route is very easy to set up for top rope, bolted and safe to do laps on, just don't fall near the start. |
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| Ground up is the way to go |
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| if youre going TR it place some directionals |
By Roger Suen
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 7, 2013
| There is a lot of bird shit at the base. Like a Chuckie Cheese ball pit of bird shit. Also lots of it in the crack that will prob fall out on to you and possibly smear on your hands as you fist the last section of the climb.
Bring hand sanitizer |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b
| Could also be called Aviary Anal Arch. So much bird crap everywhere. It was pretty gross... Had to crimp down on a mound of it up in the upper off width section. The lower/vertical section is amazing and definitely 4 stars. I took (and placed gear) in the following order: red alien, 0.75 C4, grey alien, #1 C4, #2 C4, 3.5 camalot, #4 C4, #3 C4, #2 C4, draws for the anchor. The first go on this route I only took one #2 and was really wanting the second #2. It really makes a difference! The 3.5 camalot fit perfectly in the first wide section. Much more solid than either the #3 or #4 C4. This arch is amazing and would be super classic in another more traveled trad area. The bird crap is a huge downer. I would not recommend climbing this in warmer temperatures when the bird crap starts to get mushy. There are probably 150 birds living in this crack. |
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