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Sonic Youth Cliff
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Agent Orange 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten
Season: spring thru summer
Page Views: 2,552
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Said P. on Agent Orange.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the very crimpy face on vertical to slightly overhanging rock to a bad rest. The crux comes at about 3/4 of the way up and if that's not enough its still hard 11 after that and by then your PUMPED. Long fall potential off the top if your too pumped to make the final moves to the anchor.

Location 

3rd route from the right side of the cliff.

Protection 

7 bolts, Chain anchor


Comments on Agent Orange Add Comment
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By BenL
Feb 22, 2009

this is a sport climb. you don't need any gear.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Mar 14, 2012

The second bolt on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in March 2012. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Henderson, Nevada
Apr 7, 2016

Yesterday, I was cleaning my draws while being lowered off, and when I went to reach for the dogbone of my draw that was clipped to the second bolt, the bolt and hanger pulled clean out with a terrifyingly minimal amount of force. No one was hurt, but I am incompetent and without a drill, so the bolt and hanger were left clipped to the first bolt. The bolt appears to have been replaced relatively recently, and appears to be in good shape, but we guessed that many people likely stick clip and whip on the second bolt, in addition to the outward forces from belays away from the wall rather than under the draw, and possibly also loosening from climbers when the rock may still be wet - a happening of which we're all well aware. This is the first time I've experienced this here in red rock, and was certainly a reality check. Please be careful trusting single bolts!

Also, if you are experienced in replacing bolts, I would love to learn and help/assist/chip in/do it myself if you're willing to teach! Still gotta send this thing, after all :D

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