Agent Orange (with direct start)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British A1
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Ray Ringle & Herb North, Jr. - 1982 // FFA direct: Adrian Montaño - 2021 |
Page Views: | 2,040 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Jul 27, 2012 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Wonderful features, fun climbing, and a pitch great exposure characterize this old route with a new start.
Agent Orange has typically been accessed by first climbing Cheap Thrills (10-), which has a grungy slot for its first pitch that is now occupied by a tree (see beta photo).
Recently Dave Merin, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, and I established a direct start that heads straight over a large roof to gain the terrific shallow corner on which Agent Orange starts. The description below includes this start.
Pitch 1 (75'): Start just right of Naranja. Boulder up under a small roof, place some gear and pull around it on the right side. Work up to a stance above the roof, protect in a horizontal pocket, and gain the finger crack up and to the right. Climb this to two bolts under a large roof. Pull the burly roof (5.12) or aid through (A1) and continue up a stellar shallow corner with a finger crack (11-). Hanging belay at the top of the finger crack.
Pitch 2 (60'): Work up and right into a hand and fist crack (11-). Make some strenuous moves until about 10' below a roof. Traverse directly left (fun 5.10) and enter a V-shaped notch to belay. Pitch 1 & 2 could be combined with some careful use of runners.
Pitch 3 (130'): From the notch move up about 10', place some gear, then make a committing move left on to a face with good holds. From here head straight up the left side of the arete to a bolt. Move to the arete and continue to a ledge with a tree. Continue up the arete another 15' to a second ledge. From here, follow the ramp left 30' and work up to the bolted anchor for Jimmy Dean. A thrilling, exposed, and challenging pitch.
Descent: Two 115' rappels down Jimmy Dean
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