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Agent Orange (with direct start) 
Arc Of A Diver 
Clip Tide 
Cream of Belay 
Endless Edge 
Finding Guinness 
Finding Nemo 
Free Fall 
Jaws 
Jimmy Dean 
Land Shark 
Layback 'n Cruz 
Ma'adim 
Muscle Shoals 
Naranja 
Phillipino Fighting Fish 
Prime Rib of RURP 
Rapture of the Steep 
Reef Stricken 
Salty Dogs 
Scimitar 
Shanadoo 
Shanashee 
Stop Making Sense  
Swept Away 
Tide Me Over 
Unfathomable 
Visceral Pull 
Warm and Free 
Where Eaglets Dare 

Agent Orange (with direct start) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c A1

   
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c A1 [details]
FA: Ray Ringle and Herb North, Jr.
Page Views: 483
Submitted By: Geir on Jul 27, 2012
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Agent Orange Direct to Agent Orange. First two pi...

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Description 

Wonderful features, fun climbing, and a pitch great exposure characterize this old route with a new start.

Agent Orange has typically been accessed by first climbing Cheap Thrills (10-), which has a grungy slot for its first pitch that is now occupied by a tree (see beta photo).

Recently Dave Merin, Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, and I established a direct start that heads straight over a large roof to gain the terrific shallow corner on which Agent Orange starts. The description below includes this start.

Pitch 1 (75'): Start just right of Naranja. Boulder up under a small roof, place some gear and pull around it on the right side. Work up to a stance above the roof, protect in a horizontal pocket, and gain the finger crack up and to the right. Climb this to two bolts under a large roof. Aid through the roof (A1) and continue up a stellar shallow corner with a finger crack (11-). Hanging belay at the top of the finger crack.

Pitch 2 (60'): Work up and right into a hand and fist crack (11-). Make some strenuous moves until about 10' below a roof. Traverse directly left (fun 5.10) and enter a V-shaped notch to belay. Pitch 1 & 2 could be combined with some careful use of runners.

Pitch 3 (130'): From the notch move up about 10', place some gear, then make a committing move left on to a face with good holds. From here head straight up the left side of the arete to a bolt. Move to the arete and continue to a ledge with a tree. Continue up the arete another 15' to a second ledge. From here, follow the ramp left 30' and work up to the bolted anchor for Jimmy Dean. A thrilling, exposed, and challenging pitch.

Descent: Two 115' rappels down Jimmy Dean


Location 

Starts just right of Naranja. See overview photo and Squeezing the Lemmon.


Protection 

Stoppers, doubles to blue Camalot. One #4 Camalot.



Photos of Agent Orange (with direct start) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at pitch 3 (about halfway up)
Looking up at pitch 3 (about halfway up)
Aleix on the direct start
Aleix on the direct start
Aleix on pitch 3
Aleix on pitch 3
Looking down at pitch 2
Looking down at pitch 2
Petzl self-drive bolt with Leeper hanger - found and replaced on pitch 3.  Note that the bolt did not shear off, this was its full length.  Thanks to the ASCA for the replacement hardware.
Petzl self-drive bolt with Leeper hanger - found a...
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