By David A
From Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009
| I just "discovered" this thing while browsing around on Google Earth. Does anybody have any info on it? A google search landed me on an excerpt from Green's guide book where he has a route description, so it has been climbed. It has that look that attracts me...loose, obscure, and tall. The standard route goes at 5.7. The book also states legal issues...seems similar to the situation surrounding Ship Rock.
Anybody here climbed it or have any info? | 
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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Dec 2, 2009
| I climbed it in the 90s with Brad Bond. We found it about 5.8+R if my memory serves me. For good info. look in Bjornstadt's Desert Rock. It's on private land, so be respectful. |
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By Dan.Heacock
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2009
| | Agathla (El Capitan - Arizona)
Submitted By: Dan.Heacock on Dec 2, 2009
|
This place was very inspiring when I saw it while traveling through Monument Valley. It is made of Basalt/Volcanic Tuff. I also have heard access is an issue there. |
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By Robin like the bird
From mountain center ,CA
Dec 2, 2009
| i'm pretty sure it is on the res. and climbing at any of the formations in that area are illegal. Looks pretty sweet though, i have passed that formation so many times and eyed up possible routes every time. It seems that the routes anywhere on the formation would be pretty adventures. I think that rock is an old volcanic plug. |
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By CO_Michael
Dec 2, 2009
| Just drive up to Kayenta, AZ. 7 miles north of Kayenta but south of Monument Valley.
It is on the Navajo Reservation. Not suppose to climb on the REZ.
Desert Rock says that there are 3 routes on Agathla.
West Face 5.7
East Face 5.9 A1
East Dike 5.8 |
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By Ian F.
From Phx
Dec 3, 2009
| Robin like the bird wrote: i'm pretty sure it is on the res. and climbing at any of the formations in that area are illegal. Looks pretty sweet though, i have passed that formation so many times and eyed up possible routes every time. It seems that the routes anywhere on the formation would be pretty adventures. I think that rock is an old volcanic plug.
I have driven past that thing about 1000 times in my life, and always wanted to climb it. I always assumed it was part of Monument Valley thus off limits.
The only places on the res that are 100% off limits are in the parks Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly, as far as I know.
If Agatha is on private property, it is climbable, as is Shiprock, however it is proper protocol to get the Land Owner, (Person whom has the grazing rights) permission. So, get on it and post up. If you need a partner, I would be glad to join. |
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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Dec 3, 2009
| I tried climbing it...we found it too loose and scary, and only did one pitch....(But I'm afraid of my own shadow....keep that in mind...)... |
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By CO_Michael
Dec 3, 2009
| Hey Todd,
Do you know anything about Tower Butte right outside of Page along Lake Powell??
Looks tuff to get too. Might have to get a boat and go up the Navajo Canyon and then go for it.
I haven't found anything about Tower in your posts, pics, or other research.
Thanks |
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By David A
From Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009
| Thanks for the info guys. Green suggests getting permission from the local grazing permit holder to make the climb legit...sounds like a plan to me. Won't be able to get down there until March probably. |
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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Dec 3, 2009
| Definitely not El Cap-like in any manner, even scale. However, very cool climbing and summit! If you'd like the beta, drop me a line. I have all pertinent info.
Stu |
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By David A
From Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009
| rickd wrote: As an avid res climber I must add some ideas on anything adjacent to monument valley tribal park. As Agathla is on the main road from Kayenta to MV if anyone notices you climbing (or w/ gear) you will get busted "permission" or not. Many livestock fences have appeared so parking off road is tough and there are jewelry huts and scenic view areas all along that stretch of highway. I've been 'questioned' just looking around outside the park while driving on local dirt roads so tread lightly. I'd get dropped off if you can, go early in day, and climb like Mark Twight (fast and light).
Good points, but if this thing isn't in the MV park boundaries and is instead on some dude's property he uses for grazing, wouldn't climbing with his permission be enough? Is there any law that officially forbids climbing within the entire Navajo Nation, or is it just certain areas that are forbidden (ex Monument Valley)? If the situation surrounding Agathla is anything similar to Ship Rock, the permission from the local grazing guy should be enough. Or is that statement totally false?? |
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By David A
From Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009
| Thanks Stu. I'll contact you when I actually have concrete plans to be in the area, for now it's just a curiosity thing. |
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