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The Atridae
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Agamemnon T 
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Agamemnon 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Speedie & Stone - 1964
Page Views: 1,513
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Wendy enjoying Agamemnon - a memorable moderate!

Description 

This is the photogenic chimney tucked up in the Atridae and visable from The Pines. Back and foot and full-body stemming will get you to the top in one or two pitches. Wonderful, fun climbing.

Protection 

Standard rack. Placements are spaced.


Photos of Agamemnon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming the void.
Stemming the void.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Kelly on Agamemnon
Ryan Kelly on Agamemnon

Comments on Agamemnon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2008

This may have been the hardest 5.5 I've ever done. I seem to remember pulling a heel hook over a bulge.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I don't know about any heal hooks, and I don't really have any idea about the grading either - so different from any type of climbing I've done. Regardless, great fun, great views, and great photo op. A must do if at Araps.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
Jun 5, 2009

A pleasant shady climb for a hot day. It's ridiculously hard for 5.5, but I thought that almost every climb at the Araps was absurdly difficult for its rating.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It was getting dark. Got to the ledge on the right side wall in one pitch and tried to step over from there, but didn't want to tear my groin. Instead of continuing up the crack and stepping over higher, I just down-climbed from there, since my belayer didn't want to follow it.

Absurdly difficult for 5.5? Maybe. But the protection is all there when you need it. As with most routes at Arapiles, the pitches are easily combined.

My advice: near the top, do not aim for the chimney/slab exit, but instead for the arete left of it.

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