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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
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L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment 
Angle of Repose 
Blockbuster 
Bush Doctor 
Calling All Karmas 
Cat Juggling 
Earthling 
Eraserhead 
Intelligient Life Form 
Lead Balloon 
Maize, The 
Miller Time 
Milling About 
Millstone Slab 
Moon Walk 
Odd Get Even, The 
Pencilneck 
Personal Jesus 
Private Hell 
Stick Figure Stays Home 
Stone Ground 
Strong Arm With the Lads 
Tie Die 
Yuppie Love 

Against the Establishment 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Kevin Florendo, 1990
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Tryhard on Jul 16, 2011
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Description 

Another solid Millstone route. Thin edgy climbing that requires some patience, creativity, and technical movement. The crux is around the third or fourth bolt. A good climb that stays interesting start to finish.


Location 

Bolted route just uphill from left facing flake system (Hollow Excuses 5.9R).


Protection 

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.



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By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011

Although enjoyable, this is a somewhat contrived line between easier climbing on the right (Hollow Excuses) and easier climbing on the left (a left-diagonalling system of flakes). There are at least two different ways to climb it: if you follow the natural weaknesses, you end up clipping the third bolt by stretching far to your right, then stepping back left and continuing to the fourth bolt. Done this way, the route is probably 10d or 11a. If you try to stay directly in the bolt line, tenuous underclings/sidepulls make clipping the third bolt sketchy, and gives a few more hard moves before reaching the fourth bolt. Done this way, it’s probably 11b, maybe even a tad harder. Ruckmans’ guide rates the route 11b, commenting “[m]any climbers encounter an impasse in the vicinity of the third bolt” -- close enough.