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Guides Rock
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Aftonroe S 

Aftonroe 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 8 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Klassen & Todd Anthony-Malone
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 4,403
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Oct 10, 2011

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Marcia arrives at the first belay.

Description 

From Alpinism.com:
alpinism.com
Guide’s Rock, Aftonroe (5.7)

Rack: 5 quickdraws and 2 long slings.

This climb is on the right-hand buttress of Guides Rock (Take it for Granite area). Aftonroe is the furthest line of bolts on the right side of the buttress, beside the climb For Sure and just before where the cliff becomes more broken. The first bolt is about 5 m up on excellent grey rock and the first anchor is on a ledge just above a tree and just below a short orange wall.

P1 5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts: To Sofa Ledge: Climb straight up past 4 bolts. At the fifth bolt a few harder moves lead up and right past 2 more bolts and an anchor on Sofa Ledge. (5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts)

P2 5.6, 15 m, 3 bolts: The Orange Wall: Climb up the short grey walls past a bolt to a ledge, being careful to avoid a few looser rocks in a corner. Ignore the rap anchor to the left (the top of For Sure). Walk right a few steps and climb the Orange Wall past a bolt to another corner and a third bolt. The anchor is on the ledge just above. (5.6, 15 m, 3 bolts)

P3 5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts: Formerly The Rhino Horn Pitch: The T-Bam Crack is to the right (5.9, thin hand to fist size cams). Starts up straight off the belay a bit right past a bolt. At the top of the corner, step up onto the wall beyond. Climb the crux of the route past bolts up steep incuts through the bulging Waves of Rock! At the top a surprising change of character leads to the anchor on the right. (5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts)

P4 5.5, 28 m, 4 bolts: The Best 5.5 in the Valley: The second bolt is a bit hidden on the Beautiful Slab. (5.5, 28 m, 4 bolts)

P5 5.6, 45 m, 4 bolts: Rocky Mountain Rambler: Walk up the slab to a bolt on the short, steep wall just to the right of easy ground. Ignore another bolt (ring) to the right, which is used on descent. Climb the wall to a ledge and then up a short layback crack past 2 more bolts. Exit to the right of the Dead Snag. Walk up the big ledge beyond to a bolt on the edge of a steep wall, but climb the easy ground to the right of that past the Rotten Log. The anchor is at the base of the next steeper slab. You can make this into two pitches if required, by belaying at a tree on the big ledge (5.6, 45 m, 4 bolts)

P6 5.7, 29 m, 7 bolts: The Overlap: Climb up the easy slab past bolts. Find the bolt above The Overlap, clip it, and pull the move. Continue up steepening ground and more hard moves on good incuts most of the way and belay on a ledge. (5.7, 29 m, 7 bolts)

P7 5.6, 28 m, 6 bolts: The Gillette Pitch: Handrail right to a slab, understanding how the pitch got its name. Climb up to the anchor on a ledge above. (5.6, 28 m, 6 bolts)

P8 5.3, 15 m: To Aftonroe Ledge: Step left and scramble up to a large ledge above. The anchor is a chain around The Twisted Tree. Check out the chockstone in the tree! Admire the view of the valley below, from Rundle to Pilot. (5.3, 15 m)

Descent: Rappel from the same anchors. The third rappel (Rocky Mountain Rambler pitch) is a full 30 m, make sure you tie knots in the ends of the rope. From the single ringbolt at the bottom of this rappel you can belay a climb down the easy slab to get to the next anchor.

A note on the name: The beautiful scene of river, pond and forest below the climb is now called “Backswamp” but in the distant past locals referred to it as Aftonroe. Local writer and newspaper columnist Jon Whyte regularly lamented this change. Jon died in 1992 and the naming of this route is made in his memory.

F.A. Todd Anthony-Malone, Mark Klassen; September 2011

© Mark Klassen 2011
about a week ago · Report

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All pitches are linkable if mindful of ropedrag by looking at their length. So, only pitch 5 can't be linked with something else.

Location 

This climb is on the right-hand buttress of Guides Rock (Take it for Granite area). Aftonroe is the furthest line of bolts on the right side of the buttress, beside the climb For Sure and just before where the cliff becomes more broken. The first bolt is about 5 m up on excellent grey rock and the first anchor is on a ledge just above a tree and just below a short orange wall.

Protection 

15 draws / slings if linking pitches.


Photos of Aftonroe Slideshow Add Photo
Photo credit: Mark Klassen
Photo credit: Mark Klassen
Beautiful Approach
Beautiful Approach
Photo credit: Mark Klassen
BETA PHOTO: Photo credit: Mark Klassen
Photo credit: Mark Klassen
BETA PHOTO: Photo credit: Mark Klassen
Photo credit: Mark Klassen
BETA PHOTO: Photo credit: Mark Klassen
Flower Power....
Flower Power....
Bolted Anchor - Top of first pitch
Bolted Anchor - Top of first pitch
The windy sofa!
The windy sofa!

Comments on Aftonroe Add Comment
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By Jrd311
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

very steep and loose scree on the aproach. 40 min aproach(the climb is easier than the aproach. Be very careful on the way down the footing is seriously loose but just pick up a good stick to catch yourself when you head up. I slipped and feet shot out from under me and slid on my back for a few feet it was pretty awakening. Overall it was a blast!
By Clint Landrock
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this mid-June and it was a perfect intro to the sharp Rockies limestone. I recommend putting the helmet on before starting up the scree to the base of the climbs. We arrived mid-afternoon on a windy day with a party or two on Aftonroe and one on Take it for Granite, and the base of climb felt like a shooting gallery of small rocks whizzing by - I couldn't get my helmet on fast enough and get going onto the 1st pitch. Once on the climb we saw very little rock fall however, despite two parties descending off the climb while we were going up. It was VERY windy up there, I was almost blown over at the top of pitch 5 belaying the second. The potential for getting a rope caught seemed pretty high, although we managed it without incident. A party was coming up behind us on the first couple pitches, but retreated - likely spooked by the high winds. I linked pitches 8 and 9 without much rope drag which I would recommend as pitch 9 is easy ground, only 15m (one bolt) and the top of pitch 8 offers the smallest belay ledge - the only challenge on linking the pitches is communicating with your belayer / second.