|The Cookie Cliff
This route is immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same two bolt anchor with chains. Start down and right of Beverly's with the rightward traverse to gain the left angling dihedral. There is also a vert finger crack that allows you to skip the start of the hanging dihedral and make the rope wander less. Lots of face features keep it relatively easy until the roof up top. Once you get your feet above the roof it's over.
Immediately right of Beverly's Tower and arrives at the same anchors.
Gear is mainly finger sized pieces. A standard double rack up to .75 camalot + single #1, #2, #3 should suffice. Maybe 3 - 4 of .5 camalot / red alien / grey alien size as you can use one on the traverse, one in the dihedral and at least one for the final moves. The #3 would go in on the initial traverse. Otherwise don't bring it. Could skip the #2 also probably.
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Tony Yaniro, Max Jones, 1981
|By eric schweitzer|
From: Bend, Oregon
Dec 11, 2012
Thought i'd grease the cogs on the old rumor machine: supposedly, somebody died on this route...watch out for ghosts up there!
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Apr 7, 2013
I wouldn't say it's "over" once you get your feet above the roof. Rope drag and pump factor kept me fighting up the final moves of baggy fingers and thin hands before the anchor.
Combined with Butterballs and Butterfingers, this is Nabisco Wall the hard way.