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 ADVANCED
Aftershock Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,S 
Legends Never Die S 
Living On The Edge T,S 

Aftershock 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Visser, Beck, Harding
Page Views: 1,724
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Wyatt scopes the 2nd pitch crux

Description 

This varied route is a must do for the area. Most climbers only sample the first two or three pitches, which have some classic varnished face climbing.

P1: Heady friction leads to the right and a well protected 5.10a mantle. Another funky 5.10 move leads to the LF dihedral above. A green alien is helpful in this section. A short easy runout leads to chains.

P2: A short runout leads to the first of many bolts angling up and right. The height dependent crux (5.10c/d) is at the last bolt. The 3rd to last bolt directs the rope into a crack under a flake, so a long sling may be helpful. Belay in a hole similiar to the one on Pygmy Alien. An airy pitch...

P3: Wild moves lead out of the cave to the left. 6 bolts protect these heady moves up the varnished slab to a two bolt anchor. (5.11a)

P4: Follow the varnished crack to the top of the wall. The crux is finger size, but the crack widens higher up. Plan on walking off the top.

It is possible to descend from the top of P3 with a single rope. An off route anchor is located below the P2 anchors, which is located on a blank wall.

Location 

This is the rightmost route on the Aftershock Wall. Start at a belay bolt and head straight right to the first bolt.

Protection 

SR for the last pitch.


Photos of Aftershock Slideshow Add Photo
Joe is following the interesting dihedral section on P1.
Joe is following the interesting dihedral section ...
Wyatt moving up to the 1st pitch mantle
Wyatt moving up to the 1st pitch mantle
P2 ends in the cave at the top of the photo...
P2 ends in the cave at the top of the photo...
There are some attention getting moves off the deck on P1...
There are some attention getting moves off the dec...
Joe working out the reachy crux moves on P2.
Joe working out the reachy crux moves on P2.
Almost to the 1st belay
Almost to the 1st belay
Looking down from the 1st belay
Looking down from the 1st belay
Wyatt engaged with the 4th pitch (It's just a tad loose!)
Wyatt engaged with the 4th pitch (It's just a tad ...

Comments on Aftershock Add Comment
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By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
May 14, 2011

Aftershock is an excellent route! The climbing is varied and continuously exciting. It is a significant step up from its neighbor Living on the Edge.
By Patrick Stark
From: St. George, Utah
May 2, 2013

The first and second pitch can be run together as one pitch and the rope drag is not that bad. Very different climbing than Living on the Edge and highly recommended.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Nov 30, 2013

Pitch 1 crux is moving into the corner, hard non gym like friction moves. Pitch 2 crux is the bolts right below the hole, super reachy crimp moves. The first bolt off the belay is 15 feet up so beware factor 2. Pitch 3 has hard moves right off the belay with an obvious sequence off thin positive crimps followed by a leftward traverse to 60 ft of 5.7 hero jugs to the belay. Pitch 4 looks good but is total choss. Sandy sandy sandy. Just rap from there. If you want to top out do living instead.

The bolts are pretty spacey on this one. Don't expect red rocks urioste bolting here. The 3rd pitch belay could use some chain love as it is a nest of tat. Rap straight down from the hole atop pitch 2 to find another anchor. 1 70m worked fine from top of 3 down.

Not as good as living but still worth the effort.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Feb 5, 2014

This is not a sport route. Expect runouts and an old school style of bolting. You need to be really solid at climbing 5.11 to enjoy this route. If you decided to do the 4th pitch and top-out you will need to carry gear up with you. Good belay stances.