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Wizard's Gate
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Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
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Afterlife  

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,995
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 27, 2009

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Description 

What you can expect after The Guillotine...Afterlife, and this upper portion could be your own personal heaven...or hell. Clip the chains at the top of The Guillotine, and move straight up to a right-trending arch and set of underclings. Clip the first bolt and fire through a beautiful no-holds slab for a long 20 feet to reach an overlap and some easier ground. Continue through multiple mini-roofs and eventually reach anchors. This pitch will stretch your 60 meter rope to its limit, and bend your understanding of what constitutes a usable handhold.

Location 

This is an extension to The Guillotine.

Protection 

15 bolts from the ground up.


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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 27, 2009

BIG props to second and third ascentionists, Tommy Caldwell and Kelly Cordes- firing this rig just minutes after the F.A.!
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Holy Moley. This route is super fun. I managed to get to the top of it, but my climbing was utterly devoid of any semblance of grace, and I need to track someone down who can give me some input for the top of the slab.

At the top of the slab less than two feet from the roof, there is a decent (matchable) edge with minimal feet and an orange, lichen covered, left-facing edge that I could feel I was about to peel off the wall. I have a hard time believing that hold has stuck around for many other people to climb the route, so I am interested to hear if anyone has some beta for the transition from the hard slab to the featured area above.

I don't think this lovely route gets much traffic, so expect your first burn to be entirely devoted to finding the invisible holds.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.

To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, because it is just plain old, hard, friction slab.