|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 27, 2009|
|Comments on Afterlife||Add Comment|
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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 27, 2009
|BIG props to second and third ascentionists, Tommy Caldwell and Kelly Cordes- firing this rig just minutes after the F.A.!|
By Colin Kenneth
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Holy Moley. This route is super fun. I managed to get to the top of it, but my climbing was utterly devoid of any semblance of grace, and I need to track someone down who can give me some input for the top of the slab.
At the top of the slab less than two feet from the roof, there is a decent (matchable) edge with minimal feet and an orange, lichen covered, left-facing edge that I could feel I was about to peel off the wall. I have a hard time believing that hold has stuck around for many other people to climb the route, so I am interested to hear if anyone has some beta for the transition from the hard slab to the featured area above.
I don't think this lovely route gets much traffic, so expect your first burn to be entirely devoted to finding the invisible holds.
By J. Albers
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
12c slab seems about right. The climbing off of the first set of anchors is stellar, which is followed by 15 feet or so of some desperate friction. Given the bolting at the crux (safe but exciting), it would seem that this was put in ground up. If that is the case, then it must have been exciting firing the crux slab and then getting a hook set on the lip so that the bolt over the roof could be drilled. Pretty proud.
To answer Kenneth's inquiry...don't bother looking for holds at the crux, because it is just plain old, hard, friction slab.