After The Gold Rush
|1,628 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.12a [details]|
|FA: ||Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||EDJ on Oct 8, 2012|
Pitch 2, 11+ move passing the first bolt.
This is a new classic for the crag. Two separate pitches on either side of the upper ramp make for a slew of new link up options. Eldo gear skills are a must as the bolts only protect where gear does not. The rock quality is excellent, the climbing is varied and sustained, and the pitches are both long.
Begin from the belay at the top of the third pitch of The Wisdom. This point can be reached in many ways: from Guenese up to The Wisdom. Move up the arete from the anchor 10' then left, out on to the face to a key RP. Pass this (.10b PG-13) straight up to more gear and moderate climbing until the ledge on the Le Toit exit pitch is reached. Move right up several moves on Le Toit then step left into shallow, left-facing corner. Climb this past three bolts to the face above (.11c), then move left along strata to belay on upper ramp. The next pitch starts on the first move of Love Minus Zero then follows a rising finger traverse left to the first bolt. Bust past this, then find gear moving left to the second bolt (.10a PG-13). Clip third bolt and move up to the foot ledge and place a 3" cam for the second. Move left to the bolt on the arete, pass a second bolt there, then stand back up onto the face to place a 00 Alien in a key slot. Moderate climbing past a good RP leads up to the bolt in the roof. Crank out left to a nice stance above the roof. Move up and right past an undercling (actually reversing a move on Love Minus Zero here), then go up and right again to steep, splitter crack which leads to several easy bulges and finally the big horn belay. Finish with Seams Beyond or escape on the T2 exit.
Standard Eldo rack...add an extra 00 Alien. Clip 3 bolts for the first new pitch to a natural arch anchor and 6 bolts above the upper ramp to a large horn anchor.
Passing the 3rd bolt, second pitch. During one of...
The crux 5.12 arete, protected by 2 bolts.
Approaching the roof on pitch 2. Have some small ...
The roof move, 11+, before the final head wall cra...
Pitch 1 topo. Either start from the hanging belay...
Pitch 2 topo. It's about 150'. Continue to the t...
Lower part of pitch 2. Bring small gear for the c...
Upper part of pitch 2.
|Comments on After The Gold Rush
|By Steve Sangdahl|
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 8, 2012
Nicely done! Once again Eric proves he has more energy then 12 monkies jacked up on copious amounts of espresso. Mike does a great job gettin' it done and keepin an eye out for Eric. Classic name to boot. Steve S.
|By mike schlauch|
Oct 8, 2012
This route was approved during the 2012 Summer/Fall FHRC session. Here is a link to the application. All bolts are 0.5" x 4.75" stainless steel. A black Alien &/or RP will protect the moves to the first bolt on pitch 2. Thanks to the FHRC for facilitating the new route process. Enjoy.
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2012
Nice work, guys! We saw you putting in the final bolts when we did Green Willow Wall last week. Your new climb is a proud looking line! I can't wait to sample it. Thanks for the hard work.
|By Greg Johnson|
Oct 24, 2012
Wow! Thanks for dragging me up the second pitch, Eric. What an impressive pitch: multiple cruxes, varied climbing, incredible position. 12a sounds right... if you have x-ray vision for blind holds and endless endurance!
|By Scott Bennett|
From: Colorado, etc
Nov 14, 2012
rating: 5.12a PG13
WOW, what a wild line! Thanks guys, this route is worthy.
Both pitches are far from "one-move-wonders"! P1 features sustained, hyper-techy crimps and stems up a blank corner; I kept thinking that I'd done the crux, only to find one more baffling sequence.
P2 is a sampler plate of Eldo weirdness (in a good way). We felt like there were four different cruxes, from 5.11- to 5.12-. Burly reaches, heady crimping, powerful arete climbing, and a funky roof to cap it all!
This route gets plenty of sun; I hope it see a bunch of traffic this winter. It's a safe outing for the Eldo 12a leader.
|By Hayden Kennedy|
Jan 29, 2013
Such a great route!
Thanks for putting this one up.
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Feb 3, 2013
A fun route but p.1 is maybe the most sandbagged climbing I've been on in Eldo. P.3 on The Wisdom is a good warmup for this thin monster. I love the Arete on p.2....