After The Fall
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rommie drew, finally agreeing to all my blabbering...
Also known as Totally Unreliable This route begins with 4 bolts up steep granite face with gigantor holds to the left of the bolt line (5.ez) or fun, slopey, off-kilter holds to the right and straight up the bolt line (5.7/.8). Move into and up steep hand crack that travels through a short o/w section behind the 'Death Flake' to great stance and ledge hold under roof. Lie back around left side of roof to sweet 15 ft. section of splitter! This puts you at a small stance under the last overhanging section. Finishes at 2 Fixe Rap Ring Anchors near tree root.
WARNING: 60m rope works great, just keep an eye on the ends!!! Lower into the uphill cave. There are at least 2 aggressive squirrels in the area so watch your packs!
15' to the right of 'Golden Showers'
30' to the right of 'Looney Tunes'
Approach as for Green Adj. and stay on the East (right) side of gully. Go through the 'Cave' and arrive at obvious belay nook (flat area, stone benches, etc.).
A little cottonwood classic!
A shadowy look at ATF's beautiful line
Fighting through the last corner.
|Comments on After The Fall
|By Colby Wayment|
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 1, 2006
Climbed this today. It will certainly be a nice crack route when the bolts are put in and it gets a little cleaner. For right now, we climbed the chimney to the left and traversed right on the ledge. Be EXTREMELY careful on the traverse from the chimney to the hand crack (Very loose). I think one bolt should go on the clean wall above that death ledge to protect the traverse over to the handcrack.
Regarding the flake: I guess I'll have to shrug my shoulders and say "oh well, it's not that bad". I don't know how much lieback abuse it would take from big people, but it is easy jam around it.
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 29, 2006
Cleaned up real nice. Mellow face moves to a fun varied crack. That Glen Kaplan sure is a stud!
|By James Garrett|
Apr 21, 2007
Seemed pretty solid to me. Really a good route. Not slabby and mostly hands which makes it unique for LCC. The sparse bolts on the first 40 feet is the only drawback, because it pulls you to the EZ ground left when the best part of the first part of the climb is really cool,too... but poorly protected when following the line of (only two!) bolts. If you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt, you would be a very hurting unit. I found the rock quality here pretty good, but maybe it just keeps cleaning up with the recent traffic. Sounds like it was a manufactured "R"...how come?
At any rate, I'll be back to it the next time in the Green A....it had been so long, I wasn't even aware of the new and improved trail up there! Nice...........Thanks Glen for making the best of a natural rock slide!
|By Rob C.|
From: Freeport, ME
Jun 5, 2007
This is a really great climb. The runout's more scary than the flake - don't let either deter you.
Jul 10, 2007
This is a lot of fun! If you don't have that bigger 4.5 cam you can use a good nut a little lower or a small-to-medium cam just a little lower.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 28, 2007
Two more bolts have been added to the start, so the original bolts are now bolts #2 and #4. Thanks for making the start safer!
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2007
climbed this yesterday, thought it was catalyst....great route nonetheless. really good climbing...certainly not 5.10, though. I found it to be one notch easier than Gordon's, so I'll call it 5.9. Thanks for the route!
From: Small Lake, UT
May 9, 2008
First time on this route I placed a bunch of big pieces (2 #3 and 3 #2). I redid it yesterday and didn't place anything bigger than #2 and a bunch of micros went in. Lots of gear options, some of them require a bit of imagination. The route is still a bit dirty with gravel pouring out of the cracks and a few small holds breaking. I took a fist sized rock to the face while tugging on a cam, the placement and rock looked really solid but all came out after one small pull.
I'm not sure if it was worth the chipped tooth, but great route anyway!
|By Tyler King|
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 21, 2008
This is a great route with a wide variety of climbing! The route sews up nice and has solid hands the whole way, even more if you are solid at hand/fist jamming. It seems to be cleaning up. There was only one section with some gravel in a groove. There are 3 flakes that are marked X, but you don't need them if you are climbing the crack properly, not that I would know how to do that! :)
|By John Bradford|
From: Lilongwe, Malawi
Sep 7, 2008
A nice route, would have liked to #2 camalots, and only had one, but lots of gear options as noted previously. Airy moves and good jamming.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Oct 30, 2008
Great route! Watch the rope drag, there are options for gear, but hand size pieces go in nearly everywhere, so bring em if you got em. Fun, unique climbing for LCC.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 17, 2011
Did this route yesterday, mid april, and despite it being really wet it was awesome. Very fun jamming and chimneying the flakes is super cool. Every 20 feet or so is a bomber rest. This route is a full 35 meters, so a 70m rope just barely gets you down. Bring doubles #.5-3 camalots and QD's for the 4 bolts. Just as much fun as gordon's.
|By Stevo Fowler|
Sep 15, 2011
I am a struggling 5.9 leader. I just did this route this morning. I was very glad I took a double-rack of hand sized cams and a 70m rope. This is one of LCC's classics. I went up a middle aged man and came down a boy.
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 16, 2012
that death flake will probably come off sooner than later considering that the route itself was created by rockfall- the tip of it also has a fracture in it. be careful! just as fun as gordon's!!