After Six 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: After Six follows the well worn path on the left a...
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Great moderate climbing with increasingly beautiful views of the valley. Pitch 1 - (5.6) This is the crux of the route. Jam and stem up a right facing dihedral to belay at a tree above. Move the belay up and across 3rd class for forty feet to the base of a wide crack. (120') Pitch 2 - (5.5) Climb the wide crack to the top of a pedestal and then continue slanting right across 5.4 territory to an alcove. (180') Pitch 3 - (5.3) Slab climb up a knobby face to a large ledge. (120') Pitch 4 - (5.5) Climb up the face to a right facing flake then either climb to the large roof and move right under the roof, or move right into a crack and avoid the roof entirely. Belay at a small tree. Pitch 5 - (5.6) Climb up the crack and onto the face to the top of the buttress. Descend by walking off into the gully on the left.
Location As you walk up the trail from the parking area After Six is the first climbing route that you come to on the left side of buttress.
Protection Set of nuts, small cams to 2 inches.
Kelly leading pitch 5 of After Six.
| After Six is a very popular free solo. Photo by B...
| Rope solo on After 6... what a great way to finish...
| Beatiful views
| Sandra on lead - After Six.
| Looking down the hardest 5.6 in the world (very fu...
| Top of pitch 4 (guide book).
| heading up Pitch 1
| top pitch
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By James M Schroeder From: Sauk County, WI Sep 22, 2006
| Another very fun route on the Manure pile... |
By Blitzo Sep 29, 2006
| The first pitch is greasy and polished! I thought I was going to die, free soloing it, on a humid day with constant gnat annoyance. I was so glad to wrap my arms around the tree growing out of it, before the last face moves. The tree is now gone. I'll never solo that pitch again! The upper pitches offer very friendly, secure soloing and are very fun! |
By Adam Steel From: Salt Lake City Jan 14, 2007
| The first pitch has been called "the hardest 5.6 in the valley." It has been retrograded to 5.7 in the new Supertopos. |
By Josh Hibbard From: Los Angeles Area, CA Jun 12, 2007 rating: 5.7
| The first pitch is slippery, as indicated. Even if it was not slippery, I would still rate it a 5.7. It is a very fun climb. The down climb is a very decent trail off to climbers left... Very easy approach... A bear box is near the base of the climb. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Oct 19, 2008
| Very good first multi-pitch climb. The belays are all at nice ledges (depending on where you end the third pitch. I would recommend moving up past the face moves to the optional belay ledge higher up). The climbing is very mello with plenty of pro where you realy want it. The madatory face climbing is simple, so just relax. We combined the last 2 pitches but it required me to move up the knobby face beforeTristan finished the last 10 feet or so (70 meter rope, the last ledge/slab is bigger than you think). The optional finish to the left (up the colored corner and roof) looks so rad! I wouldn't repeat this route except that I want to go back and do that finish! Gear: 1 set of nuts 1 set of cams (we used BD C4's up to yellow) plenty of slings! |
By Bryan Schillig Jul 27, 2009
| The first pitch of this route is very polished and slick for sure. I slipped but caught myself. This is definitely a challenge for a 5.6. |
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.6
| Good first multi-pitch climb. First pitch is slick so beware. The corner-roof finish is the only way to go and is not as bad as it looks. Getting up to the roof protects well with micro-cams (blue/black aliens) if I remember correctly and the roof traverse is juggy and exciting. |
By aaron hope From: Walnut Creek, CA Mar 10, 2010
| Thought it was going to be an easy 5.6 - not the case!! Haha. I've done the route several times since and Love it. The first pitch is a solid 5.7. |
By England From: ? May 10, 2010 rating: 5.6
| The first pitch is a solid seven, and very polished. A couple of aliens, and a piton(first pitch) have become permanent fixtures on the route. |
By Rodger Raubach Sep 4, 2010 rating: 5.7+
| A very popular, and crowded, route. Well worth the effort. |
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Jan 18, 2011 rating: 5.7+
| The first "5.6" pitch was the hardest 5.7 I've led in the Valley, and I've led a lot of them. Then again, the route was a bit wet too (in January). The 5.8 finishes are fun. The triple crack is good, and the roof is a burly-yet-solid bouldering move. Place a very small TCU high in the roof to avoid a bad fall, or bypass it to the left via a 5.4 slab after climbing the 5.8 crack variation. (I did the roof on TR after bypassing it since I didn't have pro for it). |
By cragsavvy From: Salt Lake City Jun 20, 2011
| the first pitch is more like 5.8.. a famous climber of yosemite, also a guide was following behind us and he said a tree was growing in the middle that pulled out that made it 5.6. He said the grades for After Six and After Seven are switched for the first pitches |
By rafael From: Berkeley, CA Sep 13, 2011
| The fixed piton on pitch one is not there anymore, and the pitch gets more polished every year. Dont end up too close to nutcracker around pitch four, this is the top of fecophilia, I decided to climb what looked to be a rarely climbed line, and got into some really runout sections (prob 5.7) with flaring cracks. I bet offset cams would work fine, but who carries those on free routes. |
By RNclimber From: Riverside, Ca Aug 8, 2012
| Partner and I did after seven then continued up this route. To much easy/scrambling climbing for me until the very last pitch. Fun face climbing at the last pitch. |
By Jeff Scheuerell Mar 31, 2013 rating: 5.8-
| I just looked in my old green Roper guide(1971) and it shows After Six as 5.7 so 5.7 isn't a retro grade after all. |
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