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Looking down the route.
The route heads up the natural line on the obvious crack just right of the dihedral of the face of the west side climbs and the main canyon face. We put in an anchor at the top of the first pitch, and there are lots of natural choices at the top of the second pitch. The second pitch follows up and to the right along a natural feature. There is potential to continue past the second pitch.
The route is located far belayer's right from the west side climbs on the other side of the creek. Watch out for poison ivy. Scramble up the dirty, brushy ledges for the first belay stance. Look for the obvious crack located about 2 meters from the dihedral between the face of the west side routes and the main canyon wall.
Appropriate gear is a full set of cams. We had two full sets and found tons of great placements of varying sizes. The first pitch has bolts. The second pitch uses a natural anchor. Bring slings and bail gear.
Looking down towards the creek.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch from the belay stance.
By Martin Harris
May 3, 2011
Won't pretend that I got the first ascent to the top, but no one has gone up there in a long time. I basically followed the path of where the gear looked like it was going to be good. A little choss a bunch of moss and a few super fun quality cracks made it feel like a mini-alpine experience.
I think I know a little about why Kor did what he did now.
By Josh Nugent
Mar 20, 2016
The route is dirty; that aside, it's just a bad route that should have never been bolted in the first place, and I have no clue how it received 1.5 stars. Someone must have just really wanted this to be something. If you decide to climb it, the protection is good; however, if you were to take a fall, the boulders on one side of the pro may just dislodge. Get ready to climb into choss, shrubs, and lots of dirt. It's my opinion that one should skip this at all cost, go to Jungle Book or Second Dihedral instead. Those are solid routes. I left 2 locking biners at the first bolts; not sure how long the webbing and cordalette has been there, but it looked a bit suspect on 3/20/16. Absolutely horrible.