Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Tom Seibert, Rich Gottlieb, 1974 |
Page Views: | 4,470 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 20, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Though Dog Days and Africa lack the beautiful aesthetic of their perfect corner of a neighbor, appearing to be rough and chunky, they are both good lines. Both of these are surprisingly good climbs on good stone. More surprising still is that either one is harder and more pumpy than the large roof cap on Arachnid.
To climb Africa, start on the crack near the continental outline, where good jamming takes you up a small distance past the 'map' to a good stance at a pod in the crack. From this stance, further jamming and some face holds on vertical rock take you past increasingly physical climbing on less positive jams (5.9, crux) to a second pod inteh crack below an overhang of dark rock, perhaps 60 feet up. This is where the route Madagascar joins Africa. Jam and jug over the roof on less difficult climbing (5.8?) and continue in a crack and corner system to the top of the climb on a larger ledge. Some clever groveling up and left can be made to lead you to the top of the rock as for Dog Days and Arachnid.
To climb Africa, start on the crack near the continental outline, where good jamming takes you up a small distance past the 'map' to a good stance at a pod in the crack. From this stance, further jamming and some face holds on vertical rock take you past increasingly physical climbing on less positive jams (5.9, crux) to a second pod inteh crack below an overhang of dark rock, perhaps 60 feet up. This is where the route Madagascar joins Africa. Jam and jug over the roof on less difficult climbing (5.8?) and continue in a crack and corner system to the top of the climb on a larger ledge. Some clever groveling up and left can be made to lead you to the top of the rock as for Dog Days and Arachnid.
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