Though Dog Days and Africa lack the beautiful aesthetic of their perfect corner of a neighbor, appearing to be rough and chunky, they are both good lines. Both of these are surprisingly good climbs on good stone. More surprising still is that either one is harder and more pumpy than the large roof cap on Arachnid.
To climb Africa, start on the crack near the continental outline, where good jamming takes you up a small distance past the 'map' to a good stance at a pod in the crack. From this stance, further jamming and some face holds on vertical rock take you past increasingly physical climbing on less positive jams (5.9, crux) to a second pod inteh crack below an overhang of dark rock, perhaps 60 feet up. This is where the route Madagascar joins Africa. Jam and jug over the roof on less difficult climbing (5.8?) and continue in a crack and corner system to the top of the climb on a larger ledge. Some clever groveling up and left can be made to lead you to the top of the rock as for Dog Days and Arachnid.
Just left of the obvious capped dihedral of Arachnid lie two more cracks, the left being Dog Days and the right being Africa. The name 'Africa' was inspired by a dark patch of rock near the base that resembles a continental outline of its namesake.
A few med-large stoppers and cams from thin hands to wide hands. A few longer slings are good bofore the pods & overhang, and when coming out of the pod up top, into the crack and corner system.
BETA PHOTO: Africa 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Africa
At the crux
Nov 5, 2010
Can anyone point out to me where this supposed shape of Africa is on or near this route? I must have a poor imagination.....
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
At the base, to the left. You can't see it in these photos.
|By Rob R.|
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 28, 2011
While you can't see them from the ground, there are rap rings at the second alcove.
|By Kevin Wagner|
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Oct 14, 2013
Save a bd number 4 for the top of the 2nd pitch or risk a ledge fall if you blow the dirty topout.