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Routes in Cyanide Gully
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Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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King of the Jungle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Semper Farcisimus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silverback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sympathy for the Grinder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rober Newsom, Dan Shively, Denise Barger 4/2006, Ground Up |
| Page Views: | 1,181 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Josh C on Jul 19, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Ascend a fun 5.8 hand/finger crack to a ledge with a bolted belay. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of "Duct Taped Plum" to the same belay.
From here, lieback up the left facing flake/crack (5.7/5.8) until you can move right into the seam. Stem up the flared double seams (sustained 10a and BD C3's are nice to have here) until you're under the roof. Clip the first bolt and pull the roof (10a). Then, trend up and right across the face (5.9) clipping the second bolt as you go. Finish up the final cracks (5.9) on "Duct Taped Plum." An awesome pitch with some variability.
Rappel with a 60m to the first belay then one more to the ground.
From here, lieback up the left facing flake/crack (5.7/5.8) until you can move right into the seam. Stem up the flared double seams (sustained 10a and BD C3's are nice to have here) until you're under the roof. Clip the first bolt and pull the roof (10a). Then, trend up and right across the face (5.9) clipping the second bolt as you go. Finish up the final cracks (5.9) on "Duct Taped Plum." An awesome pitch with some variability.
Rappel with a 60m to the first belay then one more to the ground.
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