A testy moderate with a special aura due to its proximity to the dark, gaping chimney immediately to its right.
Start about 5 feet to the left of the chimney, and follow the finger/handcrack until it is possible to begin stemming off the right arete of the chimney. Fun and delicate opposition moves lead you to the top of the pedestal.
On the right side of the cliff, on the face of the right facing corner/chimney. It is roughly 150 feet downhill and right of the start of Quadrophenia.
A standard rack with a couple extra finger/hand-sized pieces.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Aug 22, 2011
The chimney to the right is a 5.7 variation with a #4 cam and worth trying. G protection.
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I found this route to be really fun, but a little sustained and pumpy for a 5.8. I would bump the grade to a 5.9-. The crack is just about dead vertical and stays on you with tricky feet until you can stem off the chimney wall. The moves are really fun and balancy, and the gear is good. Really a fantastic single pitch route.
Looking at the picture provided above, I realize that I didn't climb it the way the leader did in the picture. I stayed in the crack the entire way, only stemming off the right wall a couple of times. Maybe that's why it felt harder.