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AFPA Rock
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Glitters is not Golden 
Andromeda Strain 
Bitch, Bitch 
Boulder Crack 
Boulder Face 
Dance On a Dragon's Back  
McDonald-Wilson 
Request Chimney 
Rip Off 
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset 
Terminal Man, The 
Two Our Surprise 
Which Bitch 
Which Witch 

AFPA Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,300'
Page Views: 2,641. Good page?   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Mar 20, 2003

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO

Description 

This rock, located across the road from Trashcan Rock offers a variety of trad routes. Ratings range from 5.6 to 5.10+. Rock quality is good. Three of the best routes are Boulder Crack (5.8), Andromeda Strain (5.7), and Spaghetti Sauce Sunset (5.10c).

Descent is a walk off the backside (away from the road).

Routes from left to right

On the Road Again.............5.8
Boulder Crack....................5.8
Boulder Face.....................5.7
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail...........5.7
Bitch Bitch.........................5.7
Sand Witch........................5.10a
Big Bad Bitch.....................5.11+
Which Bitch.......................5.8
McDonald-Wilson...............5.10d
Andromeda Strain...............5.7
The Terminal Man...............5.8
Request Chimney...............5.7
Rip Off...............................5.6
Which Witch......................5.8
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset......5.10
Two Our Surprise................5.8


Getting There 

AFPA is directly across the road from Trashcan Rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for AFPA Rock:
Boulder Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Browse More Classics in AFPA Rock

Featured Route For AFPA Rock
Past the bush, left of the roof, over the nose . . .

Spaghetti Sauce Sunset 5.10c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : AFPA Rock
This is one of the better routes on AFPA (if not the best) and takes a nice line up the far right side of the west face. Climb a crack in dark rock passing along the left side of a small roof and finish with some nifty moves past a bolt. Lots of quality climbing for such a short route with some good moves throughout. While this is certainly not a classic, it is a worthy obscurity worth checking out. Seldom will you see climbers on this route or in it's vicinity - they will all be found gearing ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of AFPA Rock Slideshow Add Photo
AFPA Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: AFPA Rock.
Photo by Blitzo.


Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA.
Photo by Blitzo.


AFPA Rock (South Face), Joshua Tree NP

AFPA Rock (South Face), Joshua Tree NP

AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP

AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP


Comments on AFPA Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 11, 2004

AFPA = "Across From Parking Area" or "A Formation Properly Avoided"??

Other suggestions welcome.

By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 12, 2004

My son and I went out to this area yesterday to scope it out and also bouldered a bit. The routes look fun, rock looks good as mentioned, walkoff easy, easy access, ....... is there a reason I am not aware of and should respect, to keep clear of this area Mike M?

By Woody Stark
Feb 22, 2004

Afpa Rock is one of the few formations that allow you to escape the wind. The top is another story.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2004

I take it all back! AFPA is actually pretty good - it is south-facing, sunny, and as Woody mentions, somewhat wind-protected. The routes, while not *classic* by any stretch, are fun and on generally good rock. A good cold/windy-day option.

By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

This area ism't the greatest.