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AFPA Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Glitters is not Golden TR 
Andromeda Strain T 
Bitch, Bitch T 
Boulder Crack T 
Boulder Face T 
Dance On a Dragon's Back  T 
McDonald-Wilson T 
Request Chimney T 
Rip Off T 
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 
Terminal Man, The T 
Two Our Surprise T 
Which Bitch T 
Which Witch T 

AFPA Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,300'
Page Views: 3,269
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Mar 20, 2003
Forecast:
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AFPA Rock (South Face), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This rock, located across the road from Trashcan Rock offers a variety of trad routes. Ratings range from 5.6 to 5.10+. Rock quality is good. Three of the best routes are Boulder Crack (5.8), Andromeda Strain (5.7), and Spaghetti Sauce Sunset (5.10c).

Descent is a walk off the backside (away from the road).

Routes from left to right

On the Road Again.............5.8
Boulder Crack....................5.8
Boulder Face.....................5.7
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail...........5.7
Bitch Bitch.........................5.7
Sand Witch........................5.10a
Big Bad Bitch.....................5.11+
Which Bitch.......................5.8
McDonald-Wilson...............5.10d
Andromeda Strain...............5.7
The Terminal Man...............5.8
Request Chimney...............5.7
Rip Off...............................5.6
Which Witch......................5.8
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset......5.10
Two Our Surprise................5.8


Getting There 

AFPA is directly across the road from Trashcan Rock.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for AFPA Rock:
Boulder Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in AFPA Rock

Featured Route For AFPA Rock
Boulder Crack. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Boulder Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : AFPA Rock
This route is on a boulder that is separate from AFPA rock, but easily visible from the road. Starts off with an overhang, crack then goes vertical. Crack offers good jams, and features on the outside of the crack offer good edges....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of AFPA Rock Slideshow Add Photo
AFPA Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: AFPA Rock.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO
Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Todd Gordon climbing at AFPA.
Photo by Blitzo.
AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP
AFPA Rock from the south, Joshua Tree NP
Comments on AFPA Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 11, 2004

AFPA = "Across From Parking Area" or "A Formation Properly Avoided"??

Other suggestions welcome.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 12, 2004

My son and I went out to this area yesterday to scope it out and also bouldered a bit. The routes look fun, rock looks good as mentioned, walkoff easy, easy access, ....... is there a reason I am not aware of and should respect, to keep clear of this area Mike M?

By Woody Stark
Feb 22, 2004

Afpa Rock is one of the few formations that allow you to escape the wind. The top is another story.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2004

I take it all back! AFPA is actually pretty good - it is south-facing, sunny, and as Woody mentions, somewhat wind-protected. The routes, while not *classic* by any stretch, are fun and on generally good rock. A good cold/windy-day option.

By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

This area ism't the greatest.