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Cactus Cliff
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Affluenza 
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Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
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Affluenza 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: Sean Hall on Dec 9, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).

Description 

This is the first route around the corner from Paleolithic Tool Traditions, and shares the first two bolts with Whiteman's Burden. The line starts in a chossy corner below the smooth, occasionally pocketed prow above. After clipping the first bolt, move right before figuring out the sequence to the ledge. Once on the small ledge, climb straight up the prow, using the bomber flake on the right and pockets on the left. When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower.


Protection 

6 camouflaged bolts to Fixe anchors.



Photos of Affluenza Slideshow Add Photo
This climbed should be renamed Easter Island Arete
This climbed should be renamed Easter Island Arete
High on Affluenza
High on Affluenza
Comments on Affluenza Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 18, 2002

Anyone know what is up with the missing hanger on the third or forth bolt? Is the bolt bad or what?

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Dec 16, 2002

At some point a couple months back the nut loosened enough that it and the hanger came off when a climber clipped into it and hung. The bolt is fine, and a new nut and hanger are now in place - have at it!

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Sep 21, 2008

In his description Sean says, "When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower"; however, instead of moving out left to finish at the Affluenza anchors, you can link into the top 2 clips of Whiteman's Burden for some extra, though a bit chossy, climbing.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 6, 2009

That crux bolt sees a lot of action, it was pretty loose this weekend. Check it before committing to the moves above it.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jan 18, 2010

It really does go both ways. My partner stayed with the layback while I jumped onto the face early. 11c both ways.