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This climbed should be renamed Easter Island Arete
This is the first route around the corner from Paleolithic Tool Traditions, and shares the first two bolts with Whiteman's Burden. The line starts in a chossy corner below the smooth, occasionally pocketed prow above. After clipping the first bolt, move right before figuring out the sequence to the ledge. Once on the small ledge, climb straight up the prow, using the bomber flake on the right and pockets on the left. When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower.
6 camouflaged bolts to Fixe anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
High on Affluenza
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 18, 2002
Anyone know what is up with the missing hanger on the third or forth bolt? Is the bolt bad or what?
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Dec 16, 2002
At some point a couple months back the nut loosened enough that it and the hanger came off when a climber clipped into it and hung. The bolt is fine, and a new nut and hanger are now in place - have at it!
|By Aeon Aki|
Sep 21, 2008
In his description Sean says, "When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower"; however, instead of moving out left to finish at the Affluenza anchors, you can link into the top 2 clips of Whiteman's Burden for some extra, though a bit chossy, climbing.
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 6, 2009
That crux bolt sees a lot of action, it was pretty loose this weekend. Check it before committing to the moves above it.
Jan 18, 2010
It really does go both ways. My partner stayed with the layback while I jumped onto the face early. 11c both ways.