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Tom Miller on the lower section of the route.
This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route! Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge. From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge. This section is the crux. From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts. Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with the bolt well below you. This climb has interesting moves from start to finish!
Start on the section of orange rock about 10 ft to the left of the start of Doce Doe and about 15 ft right of the start of Black and Tan.
8 bolts, shuts.
Moving up the ultra classic Aesthetica
Tom in the cruxy area of the climb.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jun 24, 2015
I was nervous to try this route, since it was one of the harder ones I had gotten on at that point. I got some great beta from some other visiting climbers, which worked for this and many many other routes: "If a hold looks good, just toss to it!"
Such an awesome climb