Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Raco de la Finestra
Select Route:
Action Man S 
Aeroplastica S 
Coraje al Forao S 
Entretres S 
Ktploptr S 
Laverint d'ombres S 
Lo Xispero S 
Magrana S 
Montgronyeta S 
Okemaka S 
Pitus i Flautes S 

Aeroplastica 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,187
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Antonio Banderas makes long moves, low on Aeroplas...

Description 

One of the steeper 13a's at Margalef, with big holds, and thus predictably popular. The 13a version ends at an anchor at a horizontal break ~50 feet up. The extension is 8a (5.13b). Although pitch one is relatively short, this route is on the entire way, and only offers a few poor shakes, culminating in a classic power-endurance sprint.

Stick clip the first bolt, grab one good pocket (and one not so good) from the short cheater tower. Gun for the rail, catch your breath, then bust up on good pockets to reach a line of huecos. Move left & up along these to a few shakes that come too early to be much use. A cool vertical slot & keeper 2-finger pockets lead to a desparate clip at the fifth bolt & the crux. Long moves to a polished block gain the big hole & a poor shake. Big pumpy moves lead up to the disappointing horizontal break, and a potentially heart-breaking anchor encounter.

Location 

Head along the cliff-base trail towards the left end of the wall. Just past the vertical wall with Magrana, etc, the trail dips down into the woods, and emerges below a very steep yellow wall. Aeroplastica is the left-most route in the yellow patch.

Protection 

~6 bolts on P1 to 2BA.


Photos of Aeroplastica Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A few more tough moves lead to the break.
A few more tough moves lead to the break.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spanish Steven Segal starts up the excellent "...
Spanish Steven Segal starts up the excellent "...
Rock Climbing Photo: The marginal shake just above the crux.
The marginal shake just above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: One of many big moves, this is probably the redpoi...
One of many big moves, this is probably the redpoi...
Rock Climbing Photo: one bolt before the left handed mono crux
one bolt before the left handed mono crux

Comments on Aeroplastica Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!