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Raco de la Finestra
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Action Man S 
Aeroplastica S 
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Aeroplastica 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Page Views: 958
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

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The marginal shake just above the crux.

Description 

One of the steeper 13a's at Margalef, with big holds, and thus predictably popular. The 13a version ends at an anchor at a horizontal break ~50 feet up. The extension is 8a (5.13b). Although pitch one is relatively short, this route is on the entire way, and only offers a few poor shakes, culminating in a classic power-endurance sprint.

Stick clip the first bolt, grab one good pocket (and one not so good) from the short cheater tower. Gun for the rail, catch your breath, then bust up on good pockets to reach a line of huecos. Move left & up along these to a few shakes that come too early to be much use. A cool vertical slot & keeper 2-finger pockets lead to a desparate clip at the fifth bolt & the crux. Long moves to a polished block gain the big hole & a poor shake. Big pumpy moves lead up to the disappointing horizontal break, and a potentially heart-breaking anchor encounter.

Location 

Head along the cliff-base trail towards the left end of the wall. Just past the vertical wall with Magrana, etc, the trail dips down into the woods, and emerges below a very steep yellow wall. Aeroplastica is the left-most route in the yellow patch.

Protection 

~6 bolts on P1 to 2BA.


Photos of Aeroplastica Slideshow Add Photo
Spanish Steven Segal starts up the excellent "Aeroplastica".
Spanish Steven Segal starts up the excellent "Aero...
Antonio Banderas makes long moves, low on Aeroplastica.
Antonio Banderas makes long moves, low on Aeroplas...
One of many big moves, this is probably the redpoint crux of the 5.13a pitch.
One of many big moves, this is probably the redpoi...
A few more tough moves lead to the break.
A few more tough moves lead to the break.

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