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Rincon - L of Center Route
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Gibson & Stephen DeWet, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 8, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Aerohead is a 40 foot variation to the end of Aerospace. Basically, instead of continuing up the final arete to the anchors, step left onto the face and climb past two bolts.

While the climbing here is more consistant in difficulty with the rest of Aerospace (5.11), the arete (low 5.10) provides incredible position and may be more consistant in character. In my opinion, the arete is better, hands down.

Aerohead may easily be toproped from the anchor, and, if the leader chooses to stick with the Aerospace arete he can still leave the option open to his second by running out the easier climbing.


Two bolts.

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By Bob Rotert
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is a good addition as a way to finish Aerospace. I don't want to sound like I am bashing the route because the climbing is good & hard but in my opinion for a rating I think it is marginally 5.11 if 5.11 at all. For a rating comparison I don't think it comes close in comparison of difficulty to the lower crux moves on Aerospace which is rated within a letter grade of being the same. The climbing is a bit contrived as it basically forces a line in the more difficult area of the upper slab avoiding the natural line and easier climbing on up the arete. Which is the way Aerospace was originally put up. If you can ignore the easier climbing just to your right this is a great addition as a much harder finish to Aerospace. Finishing up this route makes for one great long sustained pitch for Aerospace.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

I agree with you, Bob.