Aerobicide  5.11c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet FA:  probably KC Submitted By:  JFA on Oct 19, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is about a half mile up canyon from Bootleg Tower, on the same side. Look for the twin splitter cracks of the first pitch.

On the second pitch you have a few options. One is to go left straight off the belay into the wide flake/crack. Another is to head straight up and into some fingerlocks. Yet another option is to do what my partner did and head up the fingercrack until it gets real thin and then traverse left into the wide crack. There is some bonafide hand stacking to be reckoned with in the left crack but the right option looks just as hard, but maybe slighty better quality. I didn't check out the upper part of the right variation but I tried the move that my partner avoided by going left into the wideness. It's a long reach to a fingerlock from a pod lieback. This route should lose some of it's sandyness with more ascents.

Protection 

Lots of cams. Maybe 2 #4 camalots. Some thin stuff if you go straight up on the 2nd pitch.