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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route is about a half mile up canyon from Bootleg Tower, on the same side. Look for the twin splitter cracks of the first pitch.
On the second pitch you have a few options. One is to go left straight off the belay into the wide flake/crack. Another is to head straight up and into some fingerlocks. Yet another option is to do what my partner did and head up the fingercrack until it gets real thin and then traverse left into the wide crack. There is some bonafide hand stacking to be reckoned with in the left crack but the right option looks just as hard, but maybe slighty better quality. I didn't check out the upper part of the right variation but I tried the move that my partner avoided by going left into the wideness. It's a long reach to a fingerlock from a pod lieback. This route should lose some of it's sandyness with more ascents.
Lots of cams. Maybe 2 #4 camalots. Some thin stuff if you go straight up on the 2nd pitch.