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Aerial Boundaries 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Morris "Moe" Hershoff, Leah Macaluso, 1998. FFA: Bob D'Antonio, 1999.
Page Views: 871
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Ron Olsen angling right at the small roof by the t...
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Description 

This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain. A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.

Follow the approach described in Black Rain. Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Belay from here. Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a). Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof. Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step left to surmount the roof. Continue up the blunt arete past six more bolts to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay from here. The climbing route is 120' long.

Rappel 105' with two ropes or one 70m rope back to the ramp above the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope but you will be at the very ends of the rope.

Two stars for good rock, fun moves, and a wild move over the roof.


Protection 

10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Aerial Boundaries Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato yarding on the draw on the fourth bolt to surmount the roof.  Don't feel bad, Mike; no one has done the move free yet!
Mike Amato yarding on the draw on the fourth bolt ...
Jim Mankovich contemplating the thin crux of Aerial Boundaries.
Jim Mankovich contemplating the thin crux of Aeria...
Comments on Aerial Boundaries Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2005

The 10a layback up a ramp past the 3rd bolt leaves you in a tenuous position to make the 4th clip. My partner, who is 5'5", didn't think she could reach the clip if she were leading. The next move is the 12a/b crux (A0 if you yard on the draw). Shorter climbers be forewarned.

There's a great belay ledge at the top of the climb; bring your partner up and enjoy the view before you rappel back down.

By Scott Miller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0

Yeah, but I had to pull real hard on that draw.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 20, 2007

Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide lists Moe Hershoff as the "redpoint" in 1998. Is that incorrect? Should the rating be changed to be the free rating, since it has been listed as such since the 1999 guidebook.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2007

The information in Rossiter's guidebook is incorrect; Moe Hershoff may have toproped the line free, but he did not lead it, according to Moe himself. The first free lead of the route was by Bob D'Antonio in 1999.

By James R. Arnold
Sep 28, 2008

Really nice route. The 4th clip over the lip is not that easy to make. Consider putting a draw on that bolt and perhaps a long sling - one can yard on the draw and then step in the sling to reach the jug hold above. Without the long sling you have to make a 10 slab move to reach the jug.

I really didn't feel much at all to grab onto above the lip to try the route free. I wonder if anything has broken off in the last 9 years?