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Advice on Ice/Mountaineering Boot Lacing - Prevent Heel Lift

Original Post
coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

I am currently wearing the La Sportiva Trango Extremes, but I have repeated problems with heel lift in several mountaineering boots. I am using a custom insole.

Any tips or advice on boot lacing to prevent or minimize heel lift is much appreciated. Thanks!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

No matter how tight I lace down my boots, after I walk around in them for 5 minutes I've got loose heel already. Think it's unavoidable with a rigid sole boot in a rigid crampon. I'm baffled as to how to do any better without cutting off circulation if overtightened.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

You may already do this. But, if not, it will help a little bit...

As you're lacing the speed eyelets above the ankle, twist the laces into a 'starting knot' just as you do when you're actually tying the bow knot of your laces. Pull it tight before lacing the eyelets above. Do this in between each of the eyelets and all the way up.

This allows you to cinch the upper portion of a rigid boot more tightly than you can otherwise and it will stay tighter longer.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

I only climb in rigid soled boots. I also have extremely narrow heels.

One of the boots I use, liek you, is the Trango Extreme.

FWIW I don't tolerate heel lift in any of my boots.
For the Trango I generally lace the lower so it is not very tight and snap into the lock lace. The I do a dbl or single cross over knot (half a square knot) above the lock lace and depending on the terrain (steeper it is and the more support I want) I may do that again after every lace hook. (likely just as Crag is suggesting)

No reason for your heels to be lifting in any rigid boot if they actually fit. Let me know if that helps or if you need more info or pictures.

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

I have very narrow heels and I just wear a sock with extra heel padding. Works great.....for me :-)

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

try lacing around the whole ankle with a "starting knot" at the back, I do this on the first set of eyelets above my ankle. If you're okay with a semi rigid boot, Salewa's new ones fit a narrow/low volume foot quite well.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Thank you everyone for the responses. If you can share pictures or videos that would be fantastic.

i found these helpful videos
youtube.com/watch?v=6lHbsE8…

youtube.com/watch?v=SOE28br…

thanks again

Nate Reno · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 156

The Trango last is a bit sloppy in the heels for me.
What Tico suggested with a wrap around the back of the boot helped me a bit w/ these boots.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485
Mia Tucholke wrote:I have very narrow heels and I just wear a sock with extra heel padding. Works great.....for me :-)
on this topic what socks do people wear with your ice boots?

I think most of my socks are medium hikers from smartwool

thanks
Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
coop wrote: on this topic what socks do people wear with your ice boots? I think most of my socks are medium hikers from smartwool thanks
I wear expedition weight smartwool.
Marc Durant · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 0

This may not be the answer you're looking for, but... try a different pair of boots. I went through three pairs of boots (nepal extreme, super alpinista, and a pair of Kaylands) before finding a brand/model that fit perfectly (Scarpa Summit GTX). As much as I tried, I was never able to make my previous boots fit correctly with any combination of insoles, lacing, etc.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

I'm going to try the modified lacing techniques and thicker socks.

I have tried the batura, nepals, and now I'm in the silver bullet nepal extremes. The next time I am at Neptune's I'm going to try on every boot I can. Unfortunately not anywhere local to try them on.

Thank you

MarcDurant wrote:This may not be the answer you're looking for, but... try a different pair of boots. I went through three pairs of boots (nepal extreme, super alpinista, and a pair of Kaylands) before finding a brand/model that fit perfectly (Scarpa Summit GTX). As much as I tried, I was never able to make my previous boots fit correctly with any combination of insoles, lacing, etc.
gearwhore · · Orange, CA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 0

Coop eat a cheeseburger and fatten up those heels!!

Seriously though - (I did not read all your post or replies) I did see that you had custom inserts. Have you tried shimming those a little??

APBT1976 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 55
coop wrote: on this topic what socks do people wear with your ice boots? I think most of my socks are medium hikers from smartwool thanks
SmartWool Over calf Ski socks.

To get the perfect fit on my fucked up feet "one whole size different each foot" is size up to a bigger boot one half to a full size from largest foot. I wear the Batura and i then use the old tongue insert from my Nepals combined with Green Superfeet.

The lace lock on the Batura and Nepal seems to keep things in place just fine for me and have giant skinny ass long feet rocking a size 46...
MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Smart wool with the extra heal padding

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Could you post some pictures?
How does heel lift in the La Sportiva Extremes compare to Scarpa Phantoms?

Dane wrote:I only climb in rigid soled boots. I also have extremely narrow heels. One of the boots I use, liek you, is the Trango Extreme. FWIW I don't tolerate heel lift in any of my boots. For the Trango I generally lace the lower so it is not very tight and snap into the lock lace. The I do a dbl or single cross over knot (half a square knot) above the lock lace and depending on the terrain (steeper it is and the more support I want) I may do that again after every lace hook. (likely just as Crag is suggesting) No reason for your heels to be lifting in any rigid boot if they actually fit. Let me know if that helps or if you need more info or pictures.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

The P-Guide is more flexible under foot. Should walk better and have less heal lift even though they are wider in the forefoot. I found the P-Guide to fit a half size larger so I got a lower volume boot that fits my narrow heel better.

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

In my trangos, I wear a pair of regular socks (thin), and then wear a thicker sock with the toes cut off to prevent heel lift. That way I have my toe wiggle room but a complete heel lock. It works great.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

A heel lift (wedge) cures issues such as these in ski boots. Maybe experiment with adding a shim under the footbed while cragging at home crags.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Custom orthodic footbeds.....

End of story........

Oh yea a thicker sock I've always have found to be uncomfortable.

I routinely wear ankle high lighter to mid weight hiking socks...

Just my personal preference for the last 17 years of ice climbing.....

clay meier · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 350

Dude, just loop and swoop... duh

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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