Suppose you have a spare day in Santa Fe to climb. You would prefer to be somewhere scenic, have a fairly straight-forward approach and are only interested in grades up to 5.9. Where would you go?

The wifey and I may be heading there this week and it would be great to get in a climb (multi-pitch) or a few single pitch in a good location. Never been before.

I thought a drive down to the Sandia's may be possible, but are there any easy to get to climbs there?

Thanks!

There's a host of locals that'll no doubt echo this, but as a former local, at that grade, I'd hit up White Rock. The access will be straight-forward (usually within 5-10 minutes from the car; though single-pitch there's plenty at the grade for trad or sport leading (or easy setup top-roping if you care); and views down into the Rio Grande and across the valley to the Sangre De Cristos are great any time of year.

The Sandias are known for their, *ahem, involved approaches.

Las Conchas, without a doubt.

Thanks for the advice Crisco. Although I do like the look of Las Conchas, Bill. Only 1 hour from north side of Santa Fe. Lots of easy stuff. Would it be busy during the week at this time of year?

Las Conchas is in some ways a prettier area than White Rocks, and this time of year, White Rock is going to be stinking hot. Las Conchas is up in the Jemez mountains along a nice stream amongst the woods and meadows, whereas White Rock is more high desert; they are both beautiful in their own way. Las Conchas won't have much in the way of climbers during the week...maybe some hikers, but that's probably it. New Mexico doesn't really have crowded areas, especially during the week.

If I were you, I would probably go to Las Conchas, but if you do plan on going to White Rock, you will probably want to head to the Gallow's Edge because this area has a fair amount of routes 5.9 and under that are quite nice. You will probably be restricted to the morning and late afternoon hours after it goes into the shade because of heat. Also, for whatever reason, the Gallow's Edge always seems to have these little gnats that are hyper annoying, so consider bug spray (weird in the desert, huh?).

Have fun.

Thanks a heap for the advice, guys! I think for our purposes Las Conchas is perfect. It'll give us some time on rock and if we want to still have time in the day to head back to town and do something else (or if the weather craps out on us).

Still not sure exactly what days this week we'll be there (driving to Santa Fe from TX Tues), but if any of you are climbing and want to join us, that'd be great! Should have innernet at the hotel, so can always check in.

Cheers!

Well one more. The approach to the West Ridge of the Thumb is straightforward (~40 minutes0 and it take you to a nice 6 pitch 5.6 with a lot of scrambling at the end of the day. I think the best rock is Tres Piedras, Diablo is not my favorite. For super easy check out the Gallow's Edge, one of the crags in the White Rock area.

EDIT TO ADD: This is in the Sandias.

So, we ended up climbing at Las Conchas today. Beautiful drive up past Bandelier Monument (which we visited on Wednesday), along the edge of the caldera and then once we were done climbing drove down through Jemez valley to return to Santa Fe that way.

Climbing was perfect for our intentions. Climbed from 10am-2:30pm and got in about 7 routes. It was 65-75F and clear blue skies! Only two other climbers, but about 20 hikers and 15 dogs during our time there.

Thanks again for the advice, guys. I recommend this place for sure if anyone wants to climb and only have one day in the area to do it.