I would like to travel to Nepal in September / October 2007 to attempt climbing something like Cholatse, Tawoche, or Ama Dabalm. I’ll be the first to admit that I am a total newbie at this type of climbing and travel, because the furthest a field I have ever ventured is Canada. So, would it be a good idea to hire a guide service to handle base camp, food, and permits, etc? I am not really looking for a guide service for climbing, just for the logistical side of things. Is this a good idea? If this is the way to go, does anyone have any recommendations for whom to contact? Many thanks for any advice that anyone can lend.

Hi Friend,

You definitely will want to hire support. Most trekking agencies provide support for climbers. This can take the form of a porter to carry gear, to porters, cooks, food, tents and base camp support.

I suggest you get as much support as you can afford as just getting to the climbs can wear you down. No to mention getting a plane out on Yeti Airlines just to start your climb often takes a lot of bickering and inside work when it comes to full flights and getting you all your gear on the plane.

Only hire trekking guides who take care of their people; this includes health care for their porters. If there any questions about this, there is a Porter Relief organization who can tell you.

A Trekking Agency can be arranged from here or in Katmandu. Both options can be overwhelming, but the internet is great. I suggest you start by consulting a copy of Jaime McGinnis' book, Trekking in Nepal. It will give you all of the basics and some inside wisdom.

One last thing; do not underestimate how many people are on routes like Ama. They have gotten real popular and as a result, there is competition for good tent sites and climbing lines and clean water sources. There are some who say the climbers lost last year to the avalanche on Ama may have been camped to close to the ice fall; others say it was luck of the draw. One thing for sure, there were tents closer to the climb line who did not get hit.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to write: mcatlett@apm1.com

Climb Safe,

Michael

Hey Michael and John,

Thank you both for the reply. I just picked up a copy of Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya today, at MEC in Calgary. I think I was comparing it to the book you recommended, but made my decision to get the book I did based upon the inclusion of a section on climbing trekking peaks. So, thanks for the recommendation. So far, trying to put this trip together has been pretty frustrating. Everyone I talk to, as soon as they find out I want to climb by myself, seems to want nothing to do with it or doesn’t know any information to suggest. I have been working with Summit Climb, and they have been very helpful, but do not want to provide any support for a solo trip. Fortunately, they did recommend a contact at the Nepalese Mountaineering Association to work with. So, I have been corresponding with them (NMA).
Basically I want to try one or more of three possible peaks; Cholatse, Tawoche, or Ama Dablam. The logic behind picking these three peaks was their proximity to each other, which I think is pretty close. From talking to Summit Climb, they are saying that the permit for Ama Dablam would be $4,500 or so. That would definitely rule out trying this peak. I have not been able to find any definitive peak fees for Cholatse or Tawoche. I looked at the list of trekking peaks offered by the NMA, but I don’t think any of these peaks are listed there.
So, I think my strategy from here would be to read the book and see what it recommends as far as agencies to hire, unless you know of any to recommend. Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question. Take care.

Julian,

Stick to the trekking peaks as fees are lower and even the standard lines at 6000 meters and solo will be full on unless you are very, very skilled and experienced with altitude.

With trekking peaks you have two options, go with a guided group or hire a porter and climbing guide. The later will cost you a bit more, but it is the best way to go if you want to have your own agenda. Please note that a Nepali climbing guide is not like a guide in North America or Europe. They have basic knowledge of the region and mountains and the rest is up to you.

If you tell a trekking agent that you want to hire a guide and porter for a trekking peak, they will be able to help you. Be prepared for some of them to try to push you into a group trip, but you should not have a problem finding what you need here.

Another choice you may want to consider is just getting a porter and going to villages and climbing lines on near by peaks. There are 3000 and 4000 meter peaks everywhere that no one even bothers to climb. You could stay in a village like Gokyo and climb a different technical line each day and return to the tea house each evening. Just like climbing in the Alps and staying in the huts. Caution: do not fuck-up, there will be no one to help you on these peaks.

Surf the net or this site for Gokyo and you will see what I mean. Just about every village has a set of nearby peaks and lines, though I thought Gokyo had the most nearby technical lines. Another that comes to mind is in the village of Machermo. At the far end of the village is a great looking peak with many lines. You will never climb the full thing in a day as it will take a few hours to get to the base, but it is a beautiful peak for the taking.

All of these objectives will require that you on-site the line as there is no database or guide for these smaller peaks. I would send you a few pics, but I do not know how to insert them in this program. If you want to send me your e-mail, I will mail you a few pics that may help.

Finally, please do not underestimate the scale of Nepal and these peaks. Even a standard route on a trekking peak requires 17 days of acclimation and travel, Katmandu to Katmandu. And if you have never climbed above 4000 Meters, it is tough even for a well conditioned athlete and many people get deathly ill just trekking at these elevations.

I hope this helps. Feel free to seek additional advise.

Michael