Advice for out-of-towner climbing around Boulder next weekend.
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Hey everyone, |
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Bastille Crack in Eldo. 5.7 and can be done in 3 pitches. Would be on the more difficult end of what you want but its classic and has the shortest approach possible. |
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There are a couple options. I definitely agree with Bastille and would also recommend Wind Ridge 5.8, on the Wind Tower across the way. You could also look at some routes in Boulder Canyon. Not as pristine or long, but still good 2-4 pitch (shorter pitches) options. You could do North Face Center 5.7 or Northwest Corner 5.8, both on Cob Rock. Also, Cussin' Crack 5.7, on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. |
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I regularly walk to the first flatiron in 20 minutes. It's not *that* far IMO. |
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The Dome in boulder canyon. Lots of moderates. Fun, Roadside crag. Have fun |
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Go climb on the wind tower in ELDO! Super fun good rock. Most of the routes are 5.7 or lower (Wind ridge, tigger, the bomb) and are fun 2 pitch routes. Then if you and your girl are up for it the bastille is directly across from you and you will see people climbing the bastille crack ALL day so you will get a picture of the line by the end of the day. |
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Tommey-James wrote:Go climb on the wind tower in ELDO! Super fun good rock. Most of the routes are 5.7 or lower (Wind ridge, tigger, the bomb) and are fun 2 pitch routes. Then if you and your girl are up for it the bastille is directly across from you and you will see people climbing the bastille crack ALL day so you will get a picture of the line by the end of the day.Do this. easy approach, easy descents - great intro to the area |
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Mike Pharris wrote: Do this. easy approach, easy descents - great intro to the areaThere is nothing easy about the descent from the summit of Wind Tower. It involves exposed 4th-class downclimbing to difficult-to-locate anchors for a rappel with a somewhat spicy start. Jay |
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Wow! Awesome responses. Thanks, everyone! This definitely gives me some reading to do, and plenty of options for an afternoon and the next morning. |
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Jay Tanzman wrote: There is nothing easy about the descent from the summit of Wind Tower. It involves exposed 4th-class downclimbing to difficult-to-locate anchors for a rappel with a somewhat spicy start. JayHave you been to the anchors in the notch to the north of the summit? You don't have to do 4th class scrambling, you can keep it to 3rd. They are a little difficult to find, but certainly not impossible. They definitely don't have a "spicy start." I'm not even sure what a "spicy start" to a rappel is. --Marc |
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The Dome and Wind Tower for sure.
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I second Wind Ridge. My first climb at Eldo and it was fun. If you have more time The Ruper (5.8+) was awesome |
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Marc H wrote: Have you been to the anchors in the notch to the north of the summit? You don't have to do 4th class scrambling, you can keep it to 3rd.Care to describe the 3rd class approach to those anchors from the summit? I'd be grateful, as I've twice now only been able to find them via a one-mistakebig-pancake approach. Jay |
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JLP wrote: Is there a less complicated descent than this one from any tower in Eldo? +1 for Wind Ridge. Keep in mind if you can't fire the overhang off the ledge on P2 or 3 or whatever, you can bail on the ledge system, climber's left. No raps necessary.However, if, despite the odds, you can manage to "fire" the 5.7/8 "overhang" and grovel the last P3 "or whatever" to the summit, you are left with a confusing and poorly-described 4th-class traverse/descent to those rappel anchors. And from there forgoing the obvious rap from the obvious rap anchors in favor of downclimbing would be pretty fucking silly. Jay |
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I think The Matron is open... That would be a fun outing and less crowded than the First Flatiron. |
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There are many choices for sure. But, be sure to consider the time of day and shade or sun. Generally, it is rather hot in the sun right now. So, shady routes are recommended. Below are appox times for sun/shade. |
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Jay Tanzman wrote: Care to describe the 3rd class approach to those anchors from the summit? I'd be grateful, as I've twice now only been able to find them via a one-mistakebig-pancake approach. JayIf you stay to the east of the north-south ridge, it stays at 3rd class; it would be pretty difficult to fall down the east slabs. I generally stay right on the ridge for the traverse, but it's 4th & 5th class the whole way across if you stay on the ridge and you need to be comfortable soloing easy 5th class. --Marc |
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JLP wrote: Keep in mind if you can't fire the overhang off the ledge on P2 or 3 or whatever, you can bail on the ledge system, climber's left. No raps necessary.probably 90% of all Wind Tower climbers traverse off to climbers left on the big ledge system after P2. The upper pitches don't really have any memorable climbing, worth doing just to get to the summit, but you don't really miss anything. |
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The descent off Wind Tower can be tricky to the uninitiated. First time I climbed in Eldo we topped out on The Bomb and ended up passing the highwire cable and then coming down the Rotwand Gully. Rapped off a spindly tree and slung a tiny arch in the gully to get down. NOT recommended. |
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(wind ridge) The flake right off the 3rd pitch start is fun and worth doing once and a while for sure. The rest of the pitch isn't too memorable. |
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Margs at the Rio if your thirsty at the end of the day! Great rooftop deck. Downtown, corner of Walnut and 11th. |