Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Advice for climbing area in Alps or Dolomites?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By MealyM
From Frankfurt
Feb 10, 2014

I recently moved to Germany and am not very familiar with the climbing scene here. I'd like to drive south to the Alps or Dolomites and take a weeklong rock climbing trip this summer but have no idea where to start. Any advice on a good place to set up shop based on the below (ideal) criteria?

- Longer, moderate, multipitch routes (6-10 pitches, 5.5-5.9)
- Approach short enough that routes are day trippable
- Not too expensive (I'm used to European prices though)
- English guidebook. Barring that German.

Thanks!


FLAG
By David Coley
From UK
Feb 10, 2014

Email Jim Titt (who posts on here). Great guy, knows his stuff, and lives in Germany.


FLAG
By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Feb 10, 2014
At the BRC

Tre Cima or Sella Pass in Dolomites.
Grimsell Pass in Switzerland
Wilde Kaiser in Austria

If you can't find info online LMK and I'll elaborate, but hard to type left handed.


FLAG
By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Feb 11, 2014

I spent time in Dolomites last Sept. We climbed routes you may enjoy in Sella Pass and surrounding crags. The place we stayed in at Canazei was cheap and the guidebook is in english. Although it is the 100 classic climbs book and a tad outdated, not much has changed.

I also found that the easy climbs were a bit runout but ok; and on the Trenker Crack (Sella Tower) I wish I had brought a #4 camalot. Also the Marikante (long 5.7 finishing under the cable car). This route is ok if you follow the line; get a bit off and you are on your own.


FLAG
By IvanKrause
From San Francisco
Feb 14, 2014
Yosemite

Hi Mealy, I am planning a climbing trip to Dolomites in September. Will be traveling from US and are looking for climbing partner. Would you be interested to meet there and climb some classics? Ivan


FLAG
By MealyM
From Frankfurt
Feb 17, 2014

Thanks for all the advice everyone! This gives me a lot to focus my research on. I'll try to post something afterwards if that is helpful for others planning.

Ivan - would love to meet up but not sure if I'll be able to get away. I already have some travel planned in September and the Dolomites are a bit far for a weekend trip. PM me when your trip gets closer and I'll let you know if I can get away.


FLAG
By kenr
Feb 17, 2014

manuel rangel wrote:
Although it is the 100 classic climbs book and a tad outdated, not much has changed.

Well I guess the rock hasn't changed much, but the climbing community's ideas about a good way to do certain climbs has changed in the intervening decades.

I definitely suggest purchasing the most recent German-language guidebooks - (and use "100 Classics" only as a source of ideas).

My (German) partner and I got into trouble following the diagram + description in the "100 classics" book. Fortunately we conferred with a German party who showed us their diagram from the latest German guidebook -- and suddenly everything made sense and we finished the climb easily.

Ken


FLAG
By mrcn
Feb 18, 2014

Hi Mealy
prices in Dolomites differs greatly with season. Early september or late june may be great for climbing and much cheaper.

You can check www.ideamontagna.it/librimontagna/catalogolibrimontagna.asp for "mid grade trad rock" guidebooks in english, but route descriptions are mostly text not diagrams. I would rather suggest Mauro Bernardi's books in german from athesia "klettern im .. und umgebung. Great diagrams and photos + very short text description of approach and descent.
There's also www.versantesud.it/en/shop/arco-walls/ previously called Sarca Valls. It's guidebook for multipitch routes in Arco region. Great for early/late season or bad weather in Dolomites

For first time in Dolomites I would suggest Cortina. It's not that expensive off season. Cinque Torri for warm up and later you can move to walls around Falzarego and Valparola pass.
Sella pass is nice too.


FLAG
 
By kenr
Feb 19, 2014

mrcn wrote:
I would rather suggest Mauro Bernardi's books in german from athesia "klettern im .. und umgebung.


Yes.


FLAG
By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Feb 19, 2014
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

+1 on Wilder Kaiser

I put up an area page here based on what I found last Oct, although there is additional detailed info on summitpost (referenced on page). The guys that own the related area pages on summitpost are great resources. That reminds me, I need to put up an Ellmauer Halt page.

The topos/guides I found are mostly in German, but you can find free topos online for the more popular routes. I saw signs for a campground, but it wasn't open when I was there.


FLAG
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From MA
Mar 3, 2014
5b upper pitch in the clouds

Daytrips might be a stretch, but check out the Val Bergel -- Cassin Route on Piz Badille was one of my favorite climbs in Switzerland when I lived there. The northeast ridge is more moderate and also can be done in a day. Many more possibilities on both Swizt and Italian sides of the border; can camp or stay in the huts.

For (mostly) shorter routes with one basecamp, go to Salbithütte for a week, and climb alpine granite to your heart's content. Staying at the hut will be expensive, but you can find ways to make it cheaper.


FLAG
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 8, 2014
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.

Over a period of 51 years, I've made a total of 4 trips to the Dolomites. Due to lack of partners ( I was in the Army while on my first 3 visits), and now with advancing years, I've climbed mostly with guides. I'd suggest 2 areas: (1) Cortina d'Ampezzo as the introduction, and (2) Val Gardena as a follow up area. I'd definitely suggest the Cinque Torri group as a starting point, since there are many climbs in the difficulty range you've mentioned, along with very easy access. My favorites there are Torre Lusy, standard route, Torre Barancio, N. Face center, and Torre Quarta Bassa, Normal route. These 3 can easily be done in a day, with some time to spare if you don't get bogged down in the descents complicated by other climbers. Drawback: the area is extremely popular, and thus, crowded. The Falzarego Towers nearby are another worthwhile destination, as is the Cima Col dei Bos with it's excellent Alvera-Menardi route at 5.7+/5.8-. As you will soon see, there is rock everywhere, and mostly festooned with climbers of all abilities. By the way, I'm headed back for 4 weeks this August and September!


FLAG
By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Jul 8, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Hey Rodger! I'm moving to Bergamo, Italy, at the end of next month. I'm curious if you know anything about cragging in that area. We definitely plan on venturing to the Dolomites and exploring the Alps as well; so thanks for the info you posted!


FLAG
By don henline
Jul 9, 2014

go to a swiss climbing shop and purchase the guide book
"plasir" it is nothing but moderate long routes in Switzerland, many of which are bolted or need minimal gear. It is in german but uses alot of symbols, thus even an english speaker like me, can comprehend it.
email with more questions
dwhenline@hotmail.com


FLAG
By MacM
From Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Jul 9, 2014
3rd Day in JTree

Hey MealyM,

I was just in Munich for the month of June, Germany is a great place!
A friend and I decided to take advantage of me being over in Germany and headed to Cortina d'Ampezzo to tag some classics around the area for a week. I would highly recommend the area! It's within 30mins of Cinque Torre, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and SO much more. We did Spigallo Giallo ("Yellow Edge") on Cima Piccola, great route but is often very busy.

We also did head to Bondo, Switzerland to go do Cassin on Piz Badile. In the Val Bregaglia range.The trail to the Sasc Fura hut and to the North Ridge was almost all but destroyed by mudslides as a result from their heavy snow year this season. There was still A LOT of snow up there as of June 24th. It is a beautiful route and a beautiful area though. We were not able to get onto the route however.

More food for thought, if you are looking to stay closer to Germany and go cragging look here:
www.climbers-paradise.com/

PM me if you have any questions regarding conditions or specifics for the area. I'll help you out as best I can to answer any questions. While we were there for the few weeks I took plenty of pics for conditions during the weeks of June 16th-June24th too.

Prost,
Mac

EDIT: Forgot to mention Val di Mello aka the "Yosemite of the Alps." We weren't able to visit it due to horrible weather, but it is supposed to be a fantastic area.


FLAG
By rig
Jul 15, 2014

What were the conditions like on the piz badille when you were recently there. We would like to climb there next week but heard there might be too much snow. Now considering going to the Dolomites and the the other area that is like Italy's Yosemite. But the Cassin route on badille looks super sweet. Do you know of any long sport climbs on the way to northern Italy from zermatt area?


FLAG
 
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From MA
Jul 16, 2014
5b upper pitch in the clouds

Cassin route is so good. Having a little bit of slightly bad weather is a big advantage: Swiss people are super-spoiled and generally won't go climbing something big without perfect weather. So if it's been a bit damp for a few days, that'll keep the crowds away.

We had a great time being the first ones on the route and not having anyone breathing down our necks, partly because of some uncertain forecast (ok, and there was a few icicles in the first few cracks, no big deal.... ).


FLAG
By Mark D.
From Santa Fe
Jul 16, 2014

Rig-
Val do Mello is really cool but you need to watch the weather as it is now getting hot in Italy and that place might not be ideal in the summer heat and humidity. At least this is what I have heard from a local friend. Head to briancon over by la grave in France. Multi-pitch sport on huge limestone faces. Great weather usually and a lot of high elevation routes to avoid the summer heat.


FLAG
By MacM
From Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Jul 16, 2014
3rd Day in JTree

Rig,

When I was at Piz Badile it was very, very wet and most of the summit ridge was snow from what we could see. Below are pictures of the Nordkante and the Cassin routes, as well as the approach to the saddle, taken on June 24th.


Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014.
Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014.




Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014
Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014




Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014
Piz Badile conditions June 24th, 2014




Snowfield break on the approach to Cassin and Nordkante (North Ridge) routes.
Snowfield break on the approach to Cassin and Nordkante (North Ridge) routes.


Unfortunately I do not have the photos with me that showed how much snow was on the bottom section of the Cassin route, where it traverses. It was an extensive amount. Also, it is hard to see the water on the face since the sun was not shining on it in many of the pictures. The brek in the snowfield is about 15-18ft high and corniced over, but can probably be passed best on the left side (along the wall) as you approach the saddle. The snowfield was melting at a very fast rate while we were there. In my little experience with snow, it seemed fairly unstable.

Having said all of that we talked to the hut-keeper while we were at Sasc-Fura. In broken English and mixed Italian and German he said that two others were able to get to the summit via the Nordkante.

Since my partner and I were so set on the Cassin route up Piz Badile we didn't really look into other areas in Switzerland. Sorry I can't help you with that, but I can recommend heading into the Dolomites without question since there is just SO much there.

Here is pretty much the best thing I found for Val di Mello:
www.climbing.com/route/la-valle/

Hope this helps and enjoy your time out there!
Mac


FLAG
By rig
Jul 20, 2014

Thanks a ton everyone for the info. Hopefully the weather gets better and we can climb something!


FLAG
By miraperrone
5 days ago

any of you around to climb in september??


FLAG
By IvanKrause
From San Francisco
4 days ago
Yosemite

Hi miraperrone, I will be in Dolomites first two weeks of September. Still looking for some people to rope up with.


FLAG
By scoTt Millbern
From Langenfeld, Germany
3 days ago
in the Alps

MealyM wrote:
I recently moved to Germany and am not very familiar with the climbing scene here. I'd like to drive south to the Alps or Dolomites and take a weeklong rock climbing trip this summer but have no idea where to start. Any advice on a good place to set up shop based on the below (ideal) criteria? - Longer, moderate, multipitch routes (6-10 pitches, 5.5-5.9) - Approach short enough that routes are day trippable - Not too expensive (I'm used to European prices though) - English guidebook. Barring that German. Thanks!


It does not fit your criteria, but as you are in Frankfurt...
If you are looking for a weekend trip you should have a look at the Süd Pfalz. Cheap camping, mostly single pitch trad, but some nice sandstone.

Also, a little closer than the Dolimites.
There are some nice moderates on the Alpspitze as well, but it is best during the week and not during vacation time as the approach is really easy. 4 to 15 pitch, moderate climbs.

If you are interested ping me and I can send more beta on these areas, of the Eifel (north of Frankfurt) where there is some interesting crack climbing on basalt (also only single pitch though)


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.