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Advice? CO in August w/o a car
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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
May 9, 2012
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

Hello there, I'm going to be in Colorado Springs in the first week of August and have all of August to climb, but I don't have a car... Looking to climb sport up to 5.11 and trad up to 5.10, and I prefer long routes! My plan was to take a bus up to Boulder and backcountry camp somewhere near climbing. How feasible is this? Any recommendations on where to go? Should I even go near Boulder?

Any advice is useful, thank you!


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 9, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

You might be able to pick up enough partners here in town that you can get a ride to the crags. Sounds like a lot of travelling people here this summer. Camping near Boulder is going to be a pain, btw. You could however camp near Devil's Head since that is all Pike's National Forest. You might want a mountain bike if you do that.


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
May 9, 2012
RJN

If your trying to go climbing in Boulder you should just fly to DIA, if your flying. Boulder is pretty climber friendly so im sure you would be alright bumming around for partners/rides. Try looking into Nederland for camping there are a couple of sites there. Kinda far from the majority of the climbing like 5 miles but on the same road. Colorado Spring offers very few multipitch routes worth doing, and they are farther from town and without a car would be quite difficult to get to.


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By Josh000
May 9, 2012

There's plenty of camping in the Nederland area if you look and ask around. Your thumb is a reliable form of transportation into and out of Boulder canyon. It's a great area for friendly folks living super cheap.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 9, 2012
Bocan

search "camping / boulder" or something similar and you should be able to pull up some info on local stuff near Boulder. If I get the chance I think I've compiled the links a few times since that question pops up ever spring.

But yeah the Splatte should have some easy camping too.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 9, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Josh000 wrote:
There's plenty of camping in the Nederland area if you look and ask around. Your thumb is a reliable form of transportation into and out of Boulder canyon. It's a great area for friendly folks living super cheap.


This is true. There is bus service down to Boulder from Nederland that has a pretty good schedule as well. Again, might budget buying a pawn shop bike for the trip and sell it when you leave. I'd camp there over Devil's Head so you can go into Boulder and hang out in the evenings at Mountain Sun and late night at Absinthe House.


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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
May 10, 2012
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

@Josh, thank you I'll give it a try!

Seems like a lot of people are suggesting Nederland, but I can't seem to find how close climbing is to there...Doesn't seem to be much on mp?

And how is the weather in Eldorado Canyon in August? Is camping/getting around on foot there doable? Mostly meaning if getting to a grocery store/anywhere with food is possible on foot.

Thanks :)


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
May 10, 2012
Stabby

Eldo = no camping. Pretty far from Nederland for a sidewalk commando.

You can set up camp in the tunnels on Eldo Mtn. south of the park, I think they only see a train like once a month or something. Plus, they'll shelter you from the hurricane-like storms that hit Eldo in August.

That last part was bullshit. The point is there is no camping close to Eldo. You could camp in Nederland, just plan on climbing BoCan alot, still need a bike.


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By Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
May 10, 2012

Nederland doesn't have any routes I know of, but it is up above Boulder Canyon where you will find many thousands of routes. The last climbing area specifically is the Sport Park and is less than 5 miles down canyon from Ned. Biking to the areas is an option from Ned, but it is a biatch to go back uphill and you'd be better off thumbing it. The road is windy and doesn't have much of a shoulder to speak of. Many bikers do it, but I wouldn't personally.


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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
May 11, 2012
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

Delta Bravo wrote:
Eldo = no camping.


Well, I'm sure I'll find somewhere to camp! I'm more concerned about what the conditions are going to be there in August, and how easy it is to find partners at Eldo?


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
May 11, 2012

Keyan P wrote:
Well, I'm sure I'll find somewhere to camp!

I don't think you understand... there is almost NOWHERE to camp convenient to climbing. If there is, half of the Boulder climbing population would camp all year round instead of renting a place. See the problem/reason?


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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
May 11, 2012

shuminW wrote:
I don't think you understand... there is almost NOWHERE to camp convenient to climbing.


This may sound harsh, but he is actually spot on and trying to help. National Forest camping between Nederland and Boulder is your main option, and without a car that is going to require hitch-hiking.


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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
May 11, 2012
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

shuminW wrote:
I don't think you understand... there is almost NOWHERE to camp convenient to climbing. If there is, half of the Boulder climbing population would camp all year round instead of renting a place. See the problem/reason?


I guess I don't understand? I will be on foot carrying water/food on my back, is it that difficult to pitch a tent behind a tree? Looking at google maps it looks pretty empty out there... Not trying to be difficult, I just want to make sure I understand.


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
May 11, 2012
Me, of course

Keyan P wrote:
I guess I don't understand? I will be on foot carrying water/food on my back, is it that difficult to pitch a tent behind a tree? Looking at google maps it looks pretty empty out there... Not trying to be difficult, I just want to make sure I understand.


You'll end up with a huge fine or in jail for the night unless you hike at least an hour into the wilds. The rangers and cops in this area have a negative tolerance, not just zero, for any bums A-campin it anywhere near boulder.


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By KevinCO
From Loveland, CO
May 11, 2012

I would consider Estes Park instead. It is cooler, there is a wider range of climbing (with Alpine), and there should/might be more possibilities for camping.

While bicycle touring, I have camped a couple of miles out of town and just went off the road a little ways into the forest.


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By Aaron Lucas
May 11, 2012
Crimson Chrystalus

When I first climbed and camped in Boulder I spent two nights in random farmers fields, and a night behind a dentist office. Lucky I still have my two front teeth, and no corn cobs where they ought not be.

Then I found a youth hostile is on the hill. It was the best solution I could find, but had its drawbacks.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
May 11, 2012
Stabby

Aaron Lucas wrote:
Then I found a youth hostile is on the hill.

Heh


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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2012
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Front Range in August is pretty hot. Especially places like Eldo where the rock is kind of sweaty. I'd heed the advice to head to Estes. Much more multipitch, cooler temps, easier to bum around and catch rides. At minimum chase shade.

That said I'll be driving up to Boulder at least once, usually twice a week. If you want a ride I'd be happy to do it for a little gas money. Send me a message if you need a ride. Camping there is rough. You can bandit camp in the canyon but it blows. I've had some cool people let me crash at their house here and there but I wouldn't rely on it.

There is some decent multi pitch in the Springs but you'll tire of that quickly. The Splatte is really great, spread out though which is rough without a car. I ready think Estes is where you should go. Climb awesome multipitch at Lumpy, some sport cragging at Wizard's Gate, maybe do some alpine rock in the Park.


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