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Sweet climbing on a variety of holds, jugs, cracks, and slopers. Crank the 12a crux at third bolt, and climb through the 11 rest section. Finish the overhung 5.11c finale. Look for the good jug hold before clipping the anchors! Fantastic route!!!
Well bolted. 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a 60 m rope.
L->R for the crag." /> BETA PHOTO: The River Wall.
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003
Careful at the crux. I took a bad fall here, swung upsidedown lookin 80+ feet down at the river wasn't too cool then to swing back and hit my head on the wall under the overhang: not cool either. Make sure you can clip dat third bolt. Spooked me pretty good and haven't been back since.
|By richard magill|
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Great climbing - tricky crux followed by steep 5.11 to the anchors.
Great job by Tod Anderson.
Jul 16, 2010
OMG! Best 12a in the canyon?!?
BTW, Nate's doing the crux the hard way in that pic, there's an easier way....
From: Golden, CO
Jul 16, 2010
I'm torn between AKT and Wet Dream. Both are sooooo excellent.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2010
Hmmm, Darth, Monty....
In that range, I definitely would also add: 100 Proof, Hipster, Balkan Dirt Diving, Eiger Direct, Peer Pressure, and maybe Garrett's Revenge....
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Aug 30, 2012
I did not think it was that good. The top half is good, but the bottom half has some crumbly rock and an awkward and dangerous crux.
|By Mark Wiranowski|
Sep 11, 2012
The fall off the crux is not dangerous if you clip the third bolt and if (spoiler beta alert >>) you do the crux by getting your left foot up first and manteling with your right hand. My partner came off this way, and it kind of spun him around, but he was not in danger of hitting his head. It is pretty important to watch your legs to keep them from getting tangled in the rope. I always lead with a helmet (the "dad rule"), which makes getting out from under the roof awkward, but it would protect any bump coming off at the crux.
|By Mark E Dixon|
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Oct 4, 2012
A decent route but an awkward, thrutchy crux. However, the upper section flows nicely. I didn't notice anything crumbly. Not in my top 10, with all due respect.