Advanced Rockcraft  5.12b

698 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Fowler, Copeland, Horan, Rolofson, 1986 Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt, 1 Lead Pin [details] Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mark Rolofson leading Advanced Rock Climb. Photo: ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.

While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.

Protection 

Half a dozen draws, a heavy sack, and a rope.