Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.
While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.
Half a dozen draws, a heavy sack, and a rope.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 28, 2002
Since it is all fixed, why not upgrade the whole route?
|By Stefan Griebel|
May 27, 2010
The single bolt at the crux has been replaced with a 5-piece Rawl 3/8" bolt. Thanks to ACE for the necessary hardware and tools. The pin below, bashie (!?!) above, and pin higher are all still in place.
A yellow Alien can back up the higher pin, and a pretty darn good #5 BD Micro Stopper (Swedge) protects the upper 5.10 runout.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Aug 6, 2010
Thanks for making the effort to upgrade the hardware.
|By Rob DeZonia|
Sep 6, 2011
I love this route. It is what Eldo is all about. I led this when it had that tiny, nail-sized bolt. I had worked it on rope solo, and when I finally got a partner up there, I looked like a bad ass. The truth is, this route handed me my ass for a while. It felt like Street Car Named Desire in Joshua Tree to me. I'm psyched the bolt's been replaced. The corner's crux is ruthless. It is very hard for 12b. The dangerous part is pulling out of the upper 5.10 corner.
|By Mike Alkaitis|
May 23, 2013
The fixed wire is rusty, and if this broke, you would be bummed. No other options.