Advanced Geir  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Geir and Marcy New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Geir on Oct 11, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Geir Hundal on the FA of Advanced Geir

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Description 

This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.

Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.

Look for a bolt about 10’ off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.

1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For “extra credit” find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').

2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')

Descent: Rappel the route.

Location 

See overview topo.

Protection 

Standard rack, doubles <1" required.

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Fun route!