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> Lower Devil's C…
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> Climbology Area
Advanced Geir
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 6
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Routes in Climbology Area
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Accelerated Climbology T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Advanced Geir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flake-up Exam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pigtails & Powerdrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Geir and Marcy |
| Page Views: | 1,392 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.
Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.
Look for a bolt about 10 off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.
1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For extra credit find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').
2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')
Descent: Rappel the route.
Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.
Look for a bolt about 10 off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.
1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For extra credit find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').
2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')
Descent: Rappel the route.
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