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Adjustable personal tether, releasable under load?

Original Post
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

So this is a very specific gear question. I'm looking for a personal anchor that is adjustable, and could be easily adjusted (lengthened) while being weighted. Anyone have any to recommend? Buying something ready to go or rigging something out of cord, either is fine - but something like a purcell prussik wouldn't work as the shortest adjustment is half the length - and I need the shortest adjustment to be SHORT - like inches from the harness.

Something like this, maybe? petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/Lanya…

Though I can't seem to find in the various reviews/videos online whether it could be easily lengthened while fully weighted. Anyone have experience with this, or have one at home they are willing to try that on?

Thanks in advance, gear enthusiasts of MP!

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

Grigri or Grillon.

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455

+1 for the GRiGRi

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

Looked at the Grillon - that would definitely work, but is way overkill for me. Hoping for something a lot simpler, smaller, lighter, cheaper...

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

Munter and munter mule

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
alpinejason wrote:Munter and munter mule
Another good thought - a bit bulky, and ideally I'd like something I can operate quickly with one hand.
Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The Contact Adjust can't lengthen under load very easily. It shortens like a dream . If you put the adjuster on a carabiner off your harness instead of at the anchor you could grab the rope to take the weight off. Of course you need two hands to do it.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Brocky wrote:The Contact Adjust can't lengthen under load very easily. It shortens like a dream . If you put the adjuster on a carabiner off your harness instead of at the anchor you could grab the rope to take the weight off. Of course you need two hands to do it.
That's helpful, thanks! Once unweighted, would it lengthen quickly and easily with one hand?
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Short length of skinny rope (or thicker cord) and a WC Ropeman 1.

You could either have the Ropeman at the anchor, or double it up and have the rope/cord and the Ropeman on a locker at your belay loop. Or have the anchor end tied off with a locker, and the Ropeman on your harness. Provided you have a backup knot in the end of the rope/cord, I don't see an issue. They're supposed to release with a "light" load.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Though you need a separate backup, since it's not a personal anchor:
fishproducts.com/catalog/bi…

They are hell to release when fuzzy.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Not sure of your context, and this is obviously a bit bulky, but the jigger is frequently used in the search and rescue world for precise positioning of litter attendants.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I think once you take the weight off and rotate the adjuster it will continue to lengthen, but then you might want a brake hand or a stopper knot as mentioned before.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Derek DeBruin wrote:Not sure of your context, and this is obviously a bit bulky, but the jigger is frequently used in the search and rescue world for precise positioning of litter attendants.
Haha, nice - you found something bulkier, heavier, more complicated, and more expensive than the grillon! :) Also, there's no chance you could get your harness only inches from the far point with that set-up. Thanks for the idea though!
Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039
Em Cos wrote: Haha, nice - you found something bulkier, heavier, more complicated, and more expensive than the grillon! :) Also, there's no chance you could get your harness only inches from the far point with that set-up. Thanks for the idea though!
Fair enough. Depends on how many inches you're talking about and how big the pulleys are. Again, I have no idea what context you're thinking of, but they're easy to adjust.

Personally, I don't use them.
Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Since you're familiar with the Purcell another option is to have the friction hitch separate from the rope like a tree climbers lanyard. It's not a closed system like the Purcell, but still works the same way as it is a doubled rope technique that allows the hitch to descend. There are many better friction hitches than the Prusik that release easier.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Brocky wrote:Since you're familiar with the Purcell another option is to have the friction hitch separate from the rope like a tree climbers lanyard. It's not a closed system like the Purcell, but still works the same way as it is a doubled rope technique that allows the hitch to descend. There are many better friction hitches than the Prusik that release easier.
Sounds like it might work - is there a picture or diagram I could reference?
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Seth Jones wrote:Do you run into many scenarios where you need to lengthen your PAS while it's weighted?
Not many, no - part of why the situation and potential gear solutions are unfamiliar to me. It's possible what I need doesn't exist, or at least not in a practical form - but if anyone can point me in the right direction it's the MP think tank.
Scot Hastings · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

Do you expect it to stay put when not weighted or lightly-weighted?

A grigri with a length of rope seems like it meets most of your needs. It might pay out when lightly-weighted, though. It wouldn't be a huge deal as long as the brake strand is knotted or tied off, though.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The friction hitch is clipped to your harness and tied to a separate rope that goes to the anchor and then comes back and is clipped to your harness. The two ropes going from the anchor and the climber allows the lanyard to be lengthen under load as both share the load. This isn't possible with just a single rope. Ideally at the anchor would be a pulley on a carabiner to improve the bend ratio but just a carabiner or ring would work.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Seth Jones wrote: I would say use a sling to clip in direct while at the anchor. Then if you need more length, connect the rope to the anchor with a clove at the desired length then unclip the sling and weight the rope. No extra gear needed, gives u a quick clip in when needed instead of messing one handed cloves, adjust length while backed up. I tried figuring out a good PAS system that would be dedicated and easy but it's just not worth it when you have all the tools necessary already on you. Every dedicated solution just seemed to complicate things and clutter my harness with stuff I don't need.
No rope, no anchor - I'm well-versed in how to anchor in multi-pitch climbing and rappelling situations. This is a different, very specific, single-purpose need.

Ideally something like this: petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/Lanya…
or this:
mountaingear.com/webstore//…
if they could be lengthened while weighted, but I didn't want to start buying them just to test if they can be.

or this:
bluugnome.com/cyn_how-to/ge…
if it could be shortened to a few inches.

A gri-gri with a short length of rope would work perfectly, but is way too expensive for a single-purpose dedicated tether.
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Brocky wrote:The friction hitch is clipped to your harness and tied to a separate rope that goes to the anchor and then comes back and is clipped to your harness. The two ropes going from the anchor and the climber allows the lanyard to be lengthen under load as both share the load. This isn't possible with just a single rope. Ideally at the anchor would be a pulley on a carabiner to improve the bend ratio but just a carabiner or ring would work.
Hmm...bet a single rope with an autoblock rather than a prussik would work.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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