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Adirondack Off-Widths
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Jun 4, 2014
Looking for information on climbs, or areas, that are in the 5.6-5.10 range and are Off-Widths in the 'dacks. Or even have a longish off-width section. I know of a couple like Fear of Flying at Moss cliff... but am looking for more!


Thanks!
John Lombardi
Joined Aug 28, 2013
110 points
Jun 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff.

What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!
Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,292 points
Jun 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
P1 of Hessitation. P3 of Prelude. the last pitch of Flash Dance Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
277 points
Jun 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Summitting Independence Monument
Esthesia at Spider's Web Glass Tupperware
From the barren midwest
Joined Jul 4, 2012
32 points
Jun 4, 2014
Chris Duca wrote:
There are a couple of 5.8s at Deadwater; a great 10d (Eternity) at the Web; Phase III, The Great Dihedral, Fastest Gun (1st pitch), Casual Observer (2/3 way up on 1st pitch)--all at Poke-O; and there's a good 8+ at the Beer Walls (can't recall the name). The 3rd pitch of Touch of Class, as well as the 3rd pitch of Hard Times--both on Moss Cliff. What else am I missing?? Jim/Derek--please chime in!


Is the 8+ at beer walls Clutch and Cruise?

Great recommendations, everyone! Thanks.
John Lombardi
Joined Aug 28, 2013
110 points
Jun 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
Yes, Clutch and Cruise is the 8+. Oh yes, forgot about Esthesia, probably because I always lay the damn thing back! Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,292 points
Jun 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: bouldering
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands? Nick Goldsmith
From Pomfret VT
Joined Aug 23, 2009
277 points
Jun 5, 2014
I haven't climbed it but I was told the Route of Oppressive Power (10+) at the High Falls Crag is worth seeking out for those with a hankering for some wideness. Matt Stamplis
From Boston, MA
Joined Jul 26, 2006
6 points
Jun 5, 2014
Nick Goldsmith wrote:
Clutch and cruise is pretty funny small penis grade even @ 8+ and yes I have led it clean:) and it is not OW i think #2 hands?


Yeah I remember it being 5 or so feet of strenuous #2 hands, maybe slightly wider.
Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
78 points
Jun 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: On an early FA with Dick Tucker.
Crane Mountain has a few short offwidth sections on a few climbs:
October Crack (Wayout Wall) has a fair amount of fist/off-fist. Note that the Wayout Wall has at least one 150' long narrow OW crack that has yet to see an ascent, and a 50' squeeze chimney yet to be sent as well.
Pain & Pleasure, on the summit cliffs, is a particularly natty OW starting crux, with gritty, "alpine" rock consistency.
Rise & Shine's initial crack is not, technically OW; but it's so painful most people climb it as if it were.
There is a 5.11ish (?) OW overhang direct finish to Ape X yet to be led. I've watched one climber TR through it. Looks painful.
E-Stim also has a wide crack start, although this can be (and usually is) cheated to the right, via faceholds.
ET&LI/Torcher start at a wide OW.
Parallel Passage is not an OW, but can be climbed as a sort of insane tips-jam/squeeze chimney combination. I've seen it done, but would never consider going through that much agony.
Suicidal Sidney is a decent 5.9- OW.
Variety Crack has one of the longer stretches of OW on the "busy" side of the mtn, and is probably the highest quality route in this list.
Two routes were just put up on the Caterpillar Cliff, both of which sport OW cracks. Caveman Cam is slightly tighter than squeeze chimney, 5.7ish, Ben's route is fist to off-fist sized, 5.9ish. Both are still very dirty.
None of the established routes on Crane is full-length OW, but then, Crane's routes are seldom one style of climbing for the entire length. But a good day can be had, touring the mtn. and snagging what pointless pain these samples provide.
Jay Harrison
Joined Oct 18, 2008
5,520 points
Jun 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Brie's first glacier climb
I think "Birthday Spanking" (5.10d) at the Hudson River Crag is awaiting a 3rd ascent. It should be in shape once the black flies subside in there (November should be a safe bet, judging by this year...) Doc from Rocksport
Joined Sep 13, 2010
16 points
Jun 6, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Belledonne skiing Cime du Sambuis
Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's. Rui Ferreira
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 2, 2003
769 points
Sep 1, 2015
Any more offwidths still begging for a FA this fall? Dan L.
From Saratoga Springs, New York
Joined Jul 6, 2014
26 points
Sep 1, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
Rui Ferreira wrote:
Fastest Gun also has an OW variation to the last pitch...which never gets done. 5.10, FA Jim McCarthy, early 60's.


Ha! I backed off that years ago (not sure whether before or after Jim's FA) because I was a long way out with no pro. I remember it as one of those OW's that isn't too hard to slither back down if things aren't going well. I don't think Jim would have had any pro either, unless there is a subsidiary crack I missed that takes smaller gear. Or maybe he had some tube chocks and managed to place them?

What do folks use nowadays---my memory is that it would be Big Bro country...
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
457 points
Sep 1, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: On an early FA with Dick Tucker.
Dan L. wrote:
Any more offwidths still begging for a FA this fall?


I've got an old project (Tom Lane and I climbed the first 50' of it a few years ago) at the BAW on Crane Mountain. I call it "Welcome to My Nightmare" (A. Cooper fans will know), it begins in the chimney left of Nasty Seven. I envision it going up the chimney, then moving out right via the downward-facing, flaring offwidth at the top of the cave, and working its way onto the face above to join the route "Drive".

I remember a particularly impressive OW on Hayes Mountain, also. Definitely worth checking out.

And if you haven't done Horror Show, on Huckleberry Mountain, well, you're an OW poser. Or so I'm told.

With this dry weather, the long OW on the Wayout Wall should get sent.
Jay Harrison
Joined Oct 18, 2008
5,520 points
Sep 3, 2015
Jay Harrison wrote:
I've got an old project (Tom Lane and I climbed the first 50' of it a few years ago) at the BAW on Crane Mountain. I call it "Welcome to My Nightmare" (A. Cooper fans will know), it begins in the chimney left of Nasty Seven. I envision it going up the chimney, then moving out right via the downward-facing, flaring offwidth at the top of the cave, and working its way onto the face above to join the route "Drive".


Thanks Jay! Next time I am at Crane I'll give it a go!

Dan
Dan L.
From Saratoga Springs, New York
Joined Jul 6, 2014
26 points
Sep 3, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Spelunking Midget (.10b), Lost T  If you're not ha...
Here's the real question:

Are you wondering which routes in the ADK that have a move or two of OW? If so, some good pitches have been mentioned, although some of them are just hand/fist cracks.... Is a route automatically OW because it takes a #4 somewhere on the pitch?

Or are you looking for real, full pitch OW--no face holds, no option for power laybacking, no sneaky hand/fist jams or finger locks in the back/side. If that's more like it, I can come up with Eternity, Route of Oppressive Power, Fear of Flying, Creation of the World.
ClimbLikeAGirl
From Keene Valley
Joined Jun 14, 2015
15 points
Sep 4, 2015
Thanks for the info, I'll make sure to add them to the list! Dan L.
From Saratoga Springs, New York
Joined Jul 6, 2014
26 points
Sep 8, 2015
Something Wicked on the West side of Avalanche Lake is 5.8 with a section of off-width. Some sections are filled with boulders and it's not exactly clean, but it's fun. Mark Berenblum
Joined Sep 8, 2015
0 points


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