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Adirondack Ice Climbing

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Adirondack Ice Climbing Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.9375, -74.3775 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 9, 2009
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One of the lower ice bulges.

Description 

This section is dedicated to all those demented fanatics that call whacking sharp, pointy things into frozen icicles a worthy endeavor.

Ice climbing in the Adirondacks is as solitary an experience as its rock climbing counterpart. The routes range in character from solitarty drip lines to chandaliered waterfall ice. From Poke-O's long, heady smearfests, to the fat plastic ice of Chapel Pond Gully, the Adirondacks house some of the East's finest ice escapes. If you come with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a penchant for adverse conditions, you won't be disappointed.

Getting There 

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks, although in the middle of winter, the Ferries typically do NOT run. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

153 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',55],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Adirondack Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Adirondack Ice Climbing:
The Waterfall   WI4-5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Poke-O-Moonshine
Haggis and Cold Toast   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Avalanche Mountain Gully (AVG)   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Avalanche Lake/Pass
Neurosis   WI3-4     Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Poke-O-Moonshine
Waterfall Wall   WI3     Trad, Ice, 6 pitches, 730'   Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes
Providence   WI3 M2     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 265'   Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes
North Face   WI2 PG13     Ice, 2 pitches, 1200'   Gothics
Lions on the Beach   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Pitchoff Quarry   WI4-5     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Cascade Pass
Pussyfootin' With Lilith   WI3 M4+     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Spike   WI4+ M4     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Roaring Brook Falls   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Giant Mountain
Multiplication Gully   WI3+     Ice, 3 pitches, 225'   Wilmington Notch - High Fal...
The Trap Dike   WI2     Ice, 2 pitches, 2000'   Avalanche Lake/Pass
The Cascade   WI2+     Ice, 3 pitches, 1200'   Cascade Pass
Positive Thinking   WI5-     Ice   Poke-O-Moonshine
Positive Reinforcement   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Power Play   WI4+     Ice, 3 pitches, 220'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Crystal Ice Tower   WI4     Ice   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Chouinard's Gully    WI3     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Adirondack Ice Climbing

Featured Route For Adirondack Ice Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Pitches 2 and 3

Roaring Brook Falls WI3+  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Giant Mountain
A classic fun climb, very popular, consequently a conga line normally forms on weekends. P1 is the crux and climbs either the narrow chimney on the right, or the more exposed face on the left depending on conditions (amount of ice and water flow). Beware of open ice above P1 with rushing water below. P2 is very easy and many choose to simulclimb this pitch. P3 narrows and follows the line of moderate ice to a large topout. Parts of P3 can be a thin curtain early in the season. There is an ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Adirondack Ice Climbing Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Jan 9, 2010
A lot of Adk Ice climbing is anything but solitary, at least on weekends and holidays. Chouinard's Gully, despite having three variations to choose from, is generally queued up from about 9am until dark. Same with Roaring Brook Falls, Multiplication Gully, and most of the fast-access ice along Cascade Pass. A couple of these become hazardous as parties ascend and rappel around each other, mostly because ice chunks channel down the climbing path.
Of course, there is a lot of ice far enough off the beaten track to spend a lifetime whackin'. If the classics are crowded, take a look at some of the farther-flung flows. Just bring snowshoes for the approach!
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Dec 8, 2011
Don Mellor (mellord@northwoodschool.com) is collecting information for the next edition of Blue Lines. More info here.

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