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Adding/moving bolts at Stone Mountain NC
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By David Barbour
From Charlotte, NC
Dec 18, 2013

it's about preserving the character of a climbing area. there are all kinds of areas for all kinds of climbers. if you don't like the rules of one area, go somewhere else, or do a damn good job of convincing the locals otherwise.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 18, 2013
Meme guy

NC Rock Climber wrote:
This thread is absurd.


That's the fucking point.


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By Luke Douglas
Dec 18, 2013
Lot's of hippie love to all!

Think of climbing as a challenge to the human spirit in which one can choose to rise to the occasion or not. The original intent of this challenge was to meet the mountain on its own terms, not to beat it into submission. Climbers attempt to live up to this ideal by climbing in the best style possible, which among other things means altering the rock as little as possible. A benefit of this would be to learn about yourself, to grow as a person, and develop many other positive attributes such as self-reliance and decision making. Safety was not an overriding concern of meeting this original challenge.

Safety has a very enjoyable place in modern sport climbing allowing us to push our physical limits without facing dire consequences. Preserving traditional climbing allows us a place to push our mental limits, as well as, show our respect to those that have come before us. If we can agree that it is not acceptable to alter the rock so that you can make it up an established 5.14 providing the physical challenge would it not likewise be unacceptable to alter the r/x route providing the mental challenge?

Having to skip a bolt not originally on a line creates a contrived mental challenge. Instead of committing and fluidly moving upward you must now consider that point of protection. This disrupts the mental flow. It also diminishes the aesthetics of the line and the experience. Most important may be the commitment required. Knowing that once you start up a line with minimal to no protection you are committed to action provides an opportunity for personal growth including personal responsibility. There is also great mental and emotional reward not often found in our modern world.

Allowing room for both these physical and mental challenges gives us, as a climbing community, a chance for the most diverse experience possible. Our climbing experience is not lessened because we may never climb that 5.14 at our local crag, nor is it lessened if we never climb that r/x route at the same crag. Having those routes to aspire to just provides inspiration to the strong of will.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

Meme Guy wrote:
That's the fucking point.


Yeah, but you still don't get it. Carry on!


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 18, 2013
Meme guy

NC Rock Climber wrote:
Yeah, but you still don't get it. Carry on!


What more is there to get?


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By David Barbour
From Charlotte, NC
Dec 18, 2013

Luke gets it. Great post.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

Seriously, you would not understand and it is not worth my time to explain / argue the point you are missing. Go back to comparing your preferred climbing style to a woman fighting to survive and provide for her kids. Cheers.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 18, 2013
Meme guy

NC Rock Climber wrote:
Seriously, you would not understand and it is not worth my time to explain / argue the point you are missing. Go back to comparing your preferred climbing style to a woman fighting to survive and provide for her kids. Cheers.


Hahaha! Jesus Christ


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

Meme Guy wrote:
Hahaha! Jesus Christ


This is good. We are both getting a laugh out of this.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 18, 2013
Meme guy

Nothing I say is to be taken seriously, but since you're so interested in Mary and her cave...

hiking-stone-mountian-nc.net76.net/marycamp.htm


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

Actually, I remember one of my friends, an NC native, telling me about her one day after climbing at Stone. All kidding aside, stories like that make you stop and feel fortunate for all the amenities we take for granted.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 18, 2013
Meme guy

And beer.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

Absolutely!


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 18, 2013
Thumbtastic

Are you guys going to fight or fuck? :)

It will never cease to amuse me how simple concepts like respect can't be explained to some people. I sometimes feel like I'm trying to sell a gay guy on the many wonderful things about women....no matter how much time and effort I put into it, I'm still sprung on Eva Mendes and Hypothetical Guy is all about what Matthew Perry sits on every day.

For the record, Eva in daisy dukes stemming Stone grooves is my idea of perfection. Too bad she forgot her shirt...


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 18, 2013
tanuki

VaGenius wrote:
Are you guys going to fight or fuck? :) It will never cease to amuse me how simple concepts like respect can't be explained to some people. I sometimes feel like I'm trying to sell a gay guy on the many wonderful things about women....no matter how much time and effort I put into it, I'm still sprung on Eva Mendes and Hypothetical Guy is all about what Matthew Perry sits on every day. For the record, Eva in daisy dukes stemming Stone grooves is my idea of perfection. Too bad she forgot her shirt...


That is one thing we can totally agree on!


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 19, 2013
Meme guy

Beer and buds on me next time yall are up at stone, then we will continue the debate!


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By shannon stegg
Dec 19, 2013

Does this mean I get to chop the bolts on Laurel Robbins at L.K. and the bolts on Diff Richie's 5.7at Old Baldy? They were retro-bolted by North Carolina locals whose ethics have done more harm to the rock than any of the other areas I have climbed in across the Country!


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By Todd Wells
Dec 19, 2013

A lack of ethics, I think, is what actually harms the rock. But checkout Chattanooga, Shannon if you want to see the environmental effect of unrestrained, over-entitled millenials with bolt guns and no concept of ethics. We are now certainly the epicenter of unapologetic convenience bolting, retro-bolting and even chipping. And in Chattanooga, this is fueled in part by the profit motive; after all, we're the "Boulder of the East." We actually have non-profit foundations giving grants to sport climbers to go out and bolt more climbs. The correct term for this, I believe, is sanctioned vandalism since most of the new bolting has been done illegally. This Stone Mountain discussion seems refreshingly quaint to me in comparison to what's happening in Chattanooga.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 20, 2013
Thumbtastic

shannon stegg wrote:
They were retro-bolted by North Carolina locals whose ethics have done more harm to the rock than any of the other areas I have climbed in across the Country!


Can you elaborate a bit, Shannon? I haven't been to Laurel in ten years probably, not familiar with the retro action. And if a couple of retrobolts are the worst NC is seeing, you should come hang out in the Wild West and see the chicken wire, concrete, paint, drilled pockets, permadraws, and more at our Vegas limestone spots. Mind-blowing, yet some people still defend it.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 20, 2013
Thumbtastic

Todd Wells wrote:
We actually have non-profit foundations giving grants to sport climbers to go out and bolt more climbs.


Say WHAT?


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Dec 20, 2013
tanuki

Cheers, Meme Guy! Likewise if you ever make it out to AZ!


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By shannon stegg
Dec 20, 2013

Elaborating for Va Genius; Back in the early eighties, Rich Gottlieb established a landmaark route that I was able to be in on. He had already climbed three pitches drilling only one bolt to link up with Fathom. He came back with me to finish the last two pitches and I got to lead the first couple of pitches, that day I will never forget! His beta for the belay was a single number 2 freind in a slot at a two foot stance. Belaying off my harness, looking between my feet, trying not to stand on the freind sticking out of its hole was exhillerating to say the least. Rich repeated the crux third pitch that day by placing two small stoppers one at a time in a tiny solution pocket and pulling them out together until they wedged. When Rich named it "Laurel Robbins" it was to honor Royal Robbins. Any of you old timers remember him? Sixteen years later his crux pitch gets turned into a sport climb and you elitist continue to babble over a 5.4R that can be protected by a big bro! Really.


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 20, 2013
Meme guy

shannon stegg wrote:
Elaborating for Va Genius; Back in the early eighties, Rich Gottlieb established a landmaark route that I was able to be in on. He had already climbed three pitches drilling only one bolt to link up with Fathom. He came back with me to finish the last two pitches and I got to lead the first couple of pitches, that day I will never forget! His beta for the belay was a single number 2 freind in a slot at a two foot stance. Belaying off my harness, looking between my feet, trying not to stand on the freind sticking out of its hole was exhillerating to say the least. Rich repeated the crux third pitch that day by placing two small stoppers one at a time in a tiny solution pocket and pulling them out together until they wedged. When Rich named it "Laurel Robbins" it was to honor Royal Robbins. Any of you old timers remember him? Sixteen years later his crux pitch gets turned into a sport climb and you elitist continue to babble over a 5.4R that can be protected by a big bro! Really.


And let me direct you back to the CCC and their 'ethics', they purchased it back in 2006 finally making access legal. Since then, I know they've been fairly open about chopping illegal bolts. Maybe you should contact them instead of crying about it on our 5.4R debate that can be easily protected by sacking up and leading?


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 20, 2013
modern man

"exhilarating" or dumb as all hell, bad example if you ask me


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Dec 20, 2013
Meme guy

VaGenius wrote:
yet some people still defend it.



Shit no man
Shit no man


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