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 ADVANCED
2. Duet Area etc
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs T 
All Day Sucker T 
British Were Coming, The T 
Condemned Man T 
Continuation of Rock Candy T 
Dreamin' T,S,TR 
Duet T 
Duet Direct T 
Fall from Grace  T,S 
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  T 
Light Brigade, The T 
Lightning Crack  T 
Pops-Sick-Hill T 
Raven Crack T 
Rock Candy T 
Rodan T 
Sam's Ghost T 
Sam's Swan Song T 
Sayonara T 
Sextet T 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 
Sinister Satisfaction  T 
Slow and Easy T 
Sticky Fingers T 
White and Young T 

Add Libs 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 745
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009

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this photo shows Add Libs and Sayonara. The photo ...

Description 

The detached slab came off a year after the ascent. How to start and finish it are the same. Begin on the friction ramp using the tip of a tree branch hung near to the ground for aid up to the shallow ceiling cornered cracks (5.7+). Then I walked across the dirt ramp to climb the 30ft table slab leaning on the cliff. After that moved right above the slab to veer off left to get to a nice strenuous sustained moderate (5-6) shallow corner crack (small off sized cams (aliens) might work in this crack but having none I didn't get any placements) and before this corner crack a decent white birch tree for pro. Above this crack I got in a leaper pin. From here easily climb up to the same belay, rappel station of the 'British We’re Coming'.

Location 

left of a the climb called the British We’re Coming and right of the end of Cannonade Buttress. Look for the ramp with a birch tree above it. After tree are ceiling cracks. after cracks is a long tree filled corner.

Protection 

1 fixed pin, trad rack and the bottom and top of the climb are still connectable after finishing the ceiling moves go up to a wide groove left to a short head wall (5-6) and move right to finish up corner crack. Be careful of rope drag.


Photos of Add Libs Slideshow Add Photo
Add Libs in pink line and Syanora in blue line.
BETA PHOTO: Add Libs in pink line and Syanora in blue line.

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