||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a WI4 M4 Easy Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Late Winter to spring|
|Page Views: ||982|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Sheridan on May 11, 2010|
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Chris Sheridan trying not to get stabbed by his ow...
Adaptive Methods shares the same start as Brain Freeze
, but then traverses left and finishes on the steep south face of the Solar Wall
. The route can be approached in a variety of styles, so it's up to the climbing team to adapt to the current conditions and be ready to improvise.
During the first ascent, the lower half of the route was classic alpine mixed climbing with ice and drytooling cruxes. The upper half of the route, though not snow and ice free, was climbed as a rock route with bare hands and rock shoes. Earlier in the spring, the upper pitches likely hold more ice and would make for great steep and sustained mixed climbing.
Climb Brain Freeze
past the crux of the Changing Gullies pitch. Where Brain Freeze
cuts right, go up and left, then traverse snow ledges out into the middle of the Solar Wall
. Set a belay just below a left facing corner system (M4, 180 feet from the bottom of the Changing Gullies pitch)
If the weather is warm enough for rock shoes, climb straight up past a bulge/sloping mantel move (crux) and into the corner system. Continue up the corner to a nice alcove belay. (5.9, 180 feet) If approached as a mixed route, a variation to the right of the bulge will likely make for exciting and exposed M6 climbing to reach the corner system.
Continue up the corner system then switch to the left sided of the inset. Climb up, trending left to the top (5.8, 190 feet).
Rappeling Brain Freeze
is likely the best option, though it requires two ropes. A walk off is also possible.
Stoppers, Cams to a #5, two ice screws and a #11 Hex.
The Solar Wall on Otis Peak with the route Adaptiv...
Chris Sheridan starting up the first headwall pitc...
Chris Sheridan climbing the upper corners of Adapt...
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
May 12, 2010
Nice work, guys! That's one fine looking route.