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Right Side Gully
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Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Adaptive Expectations 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 11, 2007

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Romain enters the challenging crux sequence of &qu...

Description 

Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.

One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.

Location 

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.

Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.

CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.


Photos of Adaptive Expectations Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations,&qu...
Romain Wacziarg on "Adaptive Expectations,&qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expe...
Romain climbs past the sixth bolt of Adaptive Expe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capital...
BETA PHOTO: Adaptive Expectations seen from the top of Capital...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for Adaptive Expectations
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Adaptive Expectations

Comments on Adaptive Expectations Add Comment
Show which comments
By Romain Wacziarg
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is another distinct crux encounter at the 6th bolt. This is a fun route!
By staem
Apr 5, 2010

This a great route also. good line, good grade, great for the area. climb it if you come here ok

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