p1 Getting off the ground can be difficult. Brass nuts protect the first moves in this flared right leaning 11- crack. Climb to belay on easier ground at end of crack. p2 climbs off right and up past bolts to ledge system (10+ face). P3 climbs up a bald arete (9R) and can easily be avoided (fa third by Waugh, Jim Zahn '80)
right of the base of coke bottle/falling ross is the right diagonal of Adam's Rib.
brass nuts to medium friends
Nov 7, 2009
The crack is not as good as it looks, it is mostly a butt-crack. The gear is not very good, especially early on the pitch. The start is strange and you have to climb over multiple agave and a couple prickly pear. Pitch 2 looks to be fantastic, we accidentally did pitch 2 of The Whiner (highly recommended against doing this).
- Bolts on pitch 1 and 2 replaced.
|By Luke W.|
Nov 12, 2009
have all the bolts been replaced then?
Nov 13, 2009
There is a 3rd pitch (5.9+R/X). It is about 50 feet and has one bolt at 20 feet or so. We have not replaced that yet due to logistics of getting to it being somewhat annoying.