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Action Directe 

YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c [details]
FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 14 Sept. 1991
Page Views: 5,019
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011

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Wolfgang Güllich on his masterpiece


Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura.

This route was the world's first internationally recognized 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this for this climb.

Here's the list of people who have redpointed this brutal route (from Wikipedia):
1.1991 – Wolfgang Güllich, Germany
2.1995 – Alexander Adler, Germany
3.2000 – Iker Pou, Spain
4.2001 – Dave Graham, USA
5.2003 – Christian Bindhammer, Germany
X.2005 – Richard Simpson, Great Britain
[Simpson claimed to have sent this but this now appears to be a lie]
6.2005 – Dai Koyamada, Japan
7.2005 – Markus Bock, Germany
8.2006 – Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
9.2008 – Adam Ondra, Czech Republic
10.2008 – Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, Spain
11.2010 – Gabriele Moroni, Italy
12.2010 – Jan Hojer, Germany
13.2010 – Adam Pustelnik, Poland
14.2011 – Felix Knaub, Germany
15.2012 – Rustam Gelmanov, Russia
16.2014 - Alex Megos, Germany


Left-most route on the formation.


5 bolts to anchor

Photos of Action Directe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Ondra making the 10th ascent of this insanely...
Adam Ondra making the 10th ascent of this insanely...

Comments on Action Directe Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Oct 3, 2011

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 6, 2012

The above video is Dimencia Senil and it is in Spain. I am not sure why this is posted up under Action Direct which is in Germany. Sure the guy climbing in the video has climbed Action Direct, but other than that, wrong climb in the wrong country.
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jun 14, 2012

Yes, I agree with Darren. Cool vid, but completely irrelevant to this climb.
By Pitty
From: Marbach
Dec 19, 2012

I'm curious to know who really made it REDPOINT....
Adam Ondra surely not, he had pre-clipped the bolts....
This route is definetely much harder if clipping! And Wolfgang did remove all quickdraws after each attempt! This guy was a way better climber than most of the repeaters...... m.p.o!
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 9, 2014

Action Directe is named for a French terrorist organization. It took Gullich 11 days spread over three weeks to redpoint, not to mention a year of special dynamic first-digit one-finger training on the Campus board, which he invented and installed at the Campus training center in Germany.

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