Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Wolfgang Güllich, 14 Sept. 1991
Page Views: 12,476 total · 80/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura.

This route was the world's first internationally recognized 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this for this climb.

Here's the list of people who have redpointed this brutal route (from Wikipedia):

1. Wolfgang Güllich, Germany, 14.09.1991

2. Alexander Adler, Germany, 09.09.1995

3. Iker Pou, Spain, 07.06.2000

4. Dave Graham, USA, 21.05.2001

5. Christian Bindhammer, Germany, 14.05.2003

X. Richard Simpson, Great Britain, 13.10.2005 (Simpson claimed to have sent this but this now appears to be a lie)

6. Dai Koyamada, Japan, 16?.10.2005

7. Markus Bock, Germany, 22.10.2005

8. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria, 25.09.2006

9. Adam Ondra, Czech Republic, 19.05.2008

10. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, Spain, 24.10.2008

11. Gabriele Moroni, Italy, 17.04.2010

12. Jan Hojer, Germany, 22.05.2010

13. Adam Pustelnik, Poland, 10.10.2010

14. Felix Knaub, Germany, 22.10.2011

15. Rustam Gelmanov, Russia, 26?.03.2012

16. Alexander Megos, Germany, 03.05.2014

17. Felix Neumärker, Germany, 16.05.2015

18. Julius Westphal, Germany, 25.06.2015

19. Stefano Carnati, Italy, 14.06.2016

20. David Firnenburg, Germany, 29.10.2016

21. Stephan Vogt, Germany, 04.04.2017

22. Simon Lorenzi, Belgium, 15.04.2017

23. Said Belhaj, Sweden, 27.10.2018

24. Stefan Scarperi, Italy, 2.11.2018

25. Adrian Chiamala, Poland, 5.5.2019

26. Mélissa Le Nevé, France, 21.05.2020 (First Female Ascent)

Location Suggest change

Left-most route on the formation.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to anchor

Photos

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