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Across To Bear 
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White Dwarf 

Across To Bear 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: EFR,Robert Mcleod
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 9, 2006
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Description 

This route was done in the interest of having more moderate routes and because there are some fun cracks at the end of it that can't be reached if you don't climb 5.11. This route is on The Griddle and involves a lot of traversing to the left. Start at the base of the big left leaning dihedral. Clip the first three Fixe bolts of Sunny Side Up . Use a long runner at the 3rd bolt (unpainted). Now head left to another unpainted bolt. A tricky move gets you to a crack that can be climbed to the top or keep on moving left to the cracks. Continue up these to chains then belay your partner. Rap off. If you want to practice multi pitch there is a great crack where you could set up a belay 15 feet past the 4th bolt. This also alleviates rope drag especially if you go straight up from there.


Location 

Starts the same as Sunny Side Up on the Griddle


Protection 

Standard rack up to 3 inches



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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 7, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

This one's still a little chossy, so watch out. Your belayer is safe around the corner. The traverse makes it interesting. Protects pretty well.