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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Where Sun Don't Shine, The T,TR 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Respect T,S 
Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead S 
Unknown 10+ (beige hangers) aka Spooked aka Firestarter? S 
Unknown 10- aka Spooked S 
Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike S 
Unknown 11- right variation aka Rain Delay S 
Unknown 5 Arete aka Nurse Jackie S 
Unknown 7 Left Start aka Californication S 
Unknown 7 Right Start aka Weeds S 
Unknown 8 Blunt Arete aka Reunion S 
Unknown 9 aka Side Dish T,S 
Unknown 9+ (black hangers) aka Fire and Rain T 
Unknown 9+ aka Hustle T,S 
Unknown 9- aka Loyalty S 
Unknown aka Rain Check S 
Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver S 
Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville S 
Unknown Far Right aka Dexter S 
Unknown Left Variation aka Summer Nights S 
Unknown Right Variation aka Erika S 
Unknown Slab to Arete S 
Unknown Variation Left aka Full Respect S 
Whodathunkit T,TR 

Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,800'
Location: 40.0025, -105.3974 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,478
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003  with updates from Baumer and 2 more
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Description 

There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral. To date, I have heard of no specific name to these crags. So, I will call these Across from the Bihedral. Addendum: apparently some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag this year (2009).

Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here. Also, lying largely less explored (formerly), these provide some room for the exploratory types, though, the quality may not be completely consistent. Lichens and mosses used to enjoy nooks and cracks here.

A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter. The eastern buttress (150 feet high) contains routes: Whodathunkit, Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, and Lichenthrope. These had previously been listed under the Bihedral. There are still plenty of rocks to explore in this canyon....

In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.

To the energized bolter(s), please remove the retrobolts.

Of the new bolted routes sampled so far, Unknown 9- aka Loyalty, 9-; Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike, 11-; and Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead, 10, are recommended.

L->R: (in progress)

A. Unknown 9 aka Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
B. Unknown 9+ aka Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
C. Unknown 9- aka Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts. Retrobolted.
E1. Unknown Variation Left aka Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.
E2. Unknown 11- right variation aka Rain Delay, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts
F1. Whodathunkit, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 140', gear. Retrobolted.
F2. Firestarter, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
GF. Unknown 9+ (black hangers) aka Fire and Rain, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts (black hangers).
HG. Unknown 10+ (beige hangers) aka Spooked aka Firestarter?, 10+, 1p, 90', (beige hangers).
I. Unknown 10- aka Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts
J1. Unknown aka Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.
K. Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.
M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.
N. Unknown Slab to Arete, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?

Northwest aspect

O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
O2. Unknown 8 Blunt Arete aka Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
P1. Unknown Left Variation aka Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
P2. Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.
P3. Unknown Right Variation aka Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.
R. Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
SR. Unknown 7 Left Start aka Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
T. Unknown 7 Right Start aka Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
U. Unknown 5 Arete aka Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.
V. Unknown Far Right aka Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.

There are 3 more crags above this crag....

Getting There 

Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.

The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag:
Unknown 9- aka Loyalty   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown 10- aka Spooked   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Whodathunkit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 180'   
Unknown 9+ (black hangers) aka Fire and Rain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Respect   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Unknown 10 aka Thunderhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unknown Variation Left aka Full Respect   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown 11- right variation aka Rain Delay   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown 11 aka Lightning Strike   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Featured Route For Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Good shot of the route.

Unknown 9- aka Loyalty 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak...
This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip. Apparently, some folks stop after 7 bolts.Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and brea...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Photos of Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.
BETA PHOTO: Broken tyrolean tree stand, 7/12/12.

Comments on Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2003
You may be talking about the Sherwood Forest and the Lost Flatiron. Both of which are listed in the Rossiter book on Boulder Canyon. Sherwood Forest is located across from the Riviera and the Bihedral. The Lost Flatiron is higher on the hill and has some gear routes.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 16, 2003
Dear AC, sorry it was not clearer. This area is still upstream from both the more-travelled Lost Flatiron & Sherwood Forest. Close though. Probably the next big pullout for cars upstream from Sherwood. You can see Truth or Consequences from this pullout. It is probably just a touch upstream from Bihedral. Wee bit more obscure.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 16, 2003
I've used this pullout to park for the "Inca Stone" in the past.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2010
I was there today. The creator was there; he gave us the 2 minute tour. Most of the climbs were 50 to 80 feet long. It was shady and busy. I found it a bit confusing since climbs are close, but nothing is desperate, so it didn't make much difference. Every route I did had some good moves and I had a lot of fun. (Everyone there was having fun.) Maybe we should get the names listed, so it's less confusing? The longest route there was a right-trending trad route starting just rt of the 3rd bolted line from the left, in a rt-facing dihedral.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 18, 2011
Maybe we could drop the Unknown from all the routes? It is a little confusing. Even if we are not 100% on the names, anything is better than Unknown....
Bummer about the retro-bolts, but aside from that, it's not a bad crag. Maybe a few too many anchors, seems like some could be shared.... But I do appreciate the hooks. Thanks for that... makes cleaning a snap.
By pat thompson
From: superior
Oct 15, 2011
Amen Ed- I have been to this crag 3 times this year and had a blast each time. It is nice to have another summer crag like this one that is easy to get to and has many moderates for my son and his friends!!!
Thanks to whomever the so called "energized bolters" are as I know that you put in a ton of hard work on this once was mossy and chossy pile o'doody. Cheers-Pat and Family
By Kirk Woerner
Jul 2, 2012
I agree with Mark. The naming and all the snarky comments in the DESCRIPTIONS of these climbs seriously gets in the way of figuring out what you're on.
By Wayne
From: Superior, CO
Jul 3, 2012
I agree Mark & Kirk. It reflects poorly on MP and the area submitter and really needs to be cleaned up.
By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2012
FYI, the tree stand for the tyrolean is broken (7/12/12). Also, there is a death block to the right of Reunion that is quite loose.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Sep 3, 2012
Nice crag; good rock; fun and shady. Better than I expected after the negative vibes and retrobolting complaints in the description. Ok, some of the lines are close together and initially hard to read which route is which. And there are a few stray bolts that don't make much sense. But the "retrobolting" I saw was largely protecting face climbing that otherwise would be unprotected runout in the trad routes.
By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 6, 2012
Pretty decent crag with fun climbs. Deserves a better page than this. Drop all the "unknown" stuff. Maybe MP needs to get off its high horse.
By Jason Watts
From: Boulder,CO
May 11, 2013
The broken Tyrolean "treestand" is laying on the ground now, which makes the landing consist of 2 limbs (one broken) and 2 ropes. While it isn't a big deal going into the crag, the return trip might be a little sketchy for a non-climber type. Something to keep in mind if you plan on going to this nice "beginner" crag.

I would be willing to help someone figure out a way to get a platform back out there as this traverse serves a couple great crags.
By goingUp
Jun 11, 2013
Although the tree stand is still "broken", the climb down is simple: there is a rope there and still two good 'step limbs'. We hauled a dog over there today and easily passed/lowered her. Decent climbs, good texture on the rock, most cruxes seem to have "tricky" feet.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2013
The "Unknown" preceding the names of all of these routes is silly at this point and should be removed. It makes sorting them out difficult, particularly on the mobile app (where the full names aren't displayed until you click on them individually).
By Travis Drake
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2013
Yes, can we please update this page? It's just "Cascade Crag" and all the climbs have names...
By Abram Herman
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2013
+1 on cleaning up this page, and removing the "unknowns." Fun little crag with quite a few quality routes, a great addition/revitalization for Boulder Canyon.
By Robots and Dinosaurs
Jul 21, 2014
Please clean up this page, the crag is amazing and deserves a page not bogged down with 'unknown'
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 4, 2014
Does anyone know of a decent guide book or other resouce for this crag? D'Antonio's book shows a vague photo (but good descriptions), and the MP site is uncharacteristically lacking in good beta photos.
There are bolts all over the place on this crag, & I find it difficult to sort out the routes....