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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Tyrol
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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Bocan
Has anyone used this tryol lately? Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to be getting sketchier to use. The platform is long gone, and I'm not seeing the lower bighted rope ladder that used to be there. And I'm probably wrong but it seems higher up the tree than before with only a 5ft knotted rope to get down to the first branch.

We didn't bother trying it, but it was also noticeable that there wasn't anyone there on Saturday morning which isn't typical for that crag.

Again maybe I'm not seeing something, but it looks like a sketchy down climb from 15ft up in the tree. Have anyone else used it lately? Maybe the rope sags enough to drop down to the branch?

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By Matt Shepard
From Broomfield, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Longs Peak Cirque
I did it with a group of four about two weeks ago. It seemed fine to me but was difficult for the shortest person of our group, who might have been close to 5'0"

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Bocan
Thanks Matt. Wasn't sure if it was worth using it just to get to cascade. Amazing how high that river still is.

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By Adam Reke
From Boulder, Colorado
Jul 21, 2014
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I take beginners on this sometimes and use a rad setup, one shoulder length sling on the harness and one quick draw. The quick draw holds you in tight to get across, and the shoulder length you can clip in with you feet on the branch on the tree side. It makes it safer because you are protected while clipping in and out of the quickdraw connecting you in tight to the rope.

Rope is in good condition.

A few weeks ago a buddy of mine took someone out there who decided to go no-harness, he got pumped fell in and lived. Two days later, a hiker decided to test out the rope no harness. He fell in and got stranded on a rock in the middle of the stream, then got rescued and lived.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Bocan
Adam Reke wrote:
I take beginners on this sometimes and use a rad setup, one shoulder length sling on the harness and one quick draw. The quick draw holds you in tight to get across, and the shoulder length you can clip in with you feet on the branch on the tree side. It makes it safer because you are protected while clipping in and out of the quickdraw connecting you in tight to the rope.


Yeah i typically use a single length to get me to the branch, and then a one and a half length that I can get to the tree trunk. I was always a little leery of just unclipping at the end of that dead branch. Better to get onto the meaty part. Still looks like someone removed the lower rope ladder...hopefully no one takes a spill getting out of the tree.

And haha no harness? sounds like someone saw cliffhanger too many times.

Saw a poor girl get stuck towards the end of the vampire rock tryol. Her sling was too long and she couldn't pull herself across the incline. Hope she made it!

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By John Sittler
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Adam Reke wrote:
shoulder length sling on the harness and one quick draw. The quick draw holds you in tight to get across, and the shoulder length you can clip in with you feet on the branch on the tree side. It makes it safer because you are protected while clipping in and out of the quickdraw connecting you in tight to the rope.


+1 on that setup. Also, if you're sketched out downclimbing the knotted rope, you can clip a draw into the loops made by each knot on your way down. As Adam said, rope is tight and in good condition as of two days ago. Little to no sag, especially compared to other canyon tyrols

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By Steve Levin
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Guiding in RMNP
Descending the tree is difficult for some folks, esp if they are short and/or still have a pack on.

One easy solution for folks having trouble is to tie them in with a Munter/Mule/OH on a long cordellete as their weighted attachment point to cross (have this cinched-up to QD-length), back this up with a sling/locking 'biner, then when they reach the tree side, unclip the back-up and have the stronger climber in the party at the tree simply lower them down to the ground off the Munter. (Make sure you close the system here so you don't lower off the end of the cordellete.) Then the stronger climber in the group can pass their pack down, retrieve the Munter 'biner, and hand-over-hand the knotted rope.

With smaller children, or adults having trouble actually pulling themselves across, you can tie them into a length of rope with a MMO set-up as their weighted attachment point as described above, clove hitch the rope on the backside of the MMO with a separate locker attached to the MMO locker, and pull them across. When they get to the tree side, untie the clove, pop the mule and lower them to the ground. Use a back-up sling here also. With this set-up, you can attach their pack to the clove instead of them wearing it.

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By Robots and Dinosaurs
Jul 21, 2014
The platform has been gone for a long time. For us taller folks you can just step on the branch a few feet out from the tree and you'll be able to pull down the rope enough to unhook even short draws. For shorter people you have to get to the tree, step on one of the cut nubs, pull on a short branch with your left arm and unhook. Then you just kinda shimmy down the knotted rope. I think there is still one foot loop for unhooking too but I always get my foot stuck in those. Don't mountainproject over complicate things with set ups just swear at it when you struggle a little.

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By Steve Levin
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Guiding in RMNP
Robots and Dinosaurs wrote:
Don't mountainproject over complicate things with set ups just swear at it when you struggle a little.


Haha! Now that's expert mountainproject advice!

My set-up is actually quite simple and takes no more time than using a QD and a sling. I use it all the time when bringing clients across the Cascade tyrol. It's much easier than swearing and struggling!

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By Eddie Taylor
From Broomfield
Jul 22, 2014
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I'm not really sure if it was dead, you probably just couldn't see people from the road. I was there this weekend and it was crazy packed. The tyrol is definitely a little sketch, with only the one long branch on the tree, but the rope is in pretty good shape.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2014
Bocan
Eddie Taylor wrote:
I was there this weekend and it was crazy packed.


Bocan is as bad as trying to climb at Movement. I read an article saying the Front Range is going to have 50% more population by around 2040. Have no idea where they are going to put them.

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By Robots and Dinosaurs
Jul 22, 2014
Despite the fact that Cascade is so popular, its mountain project page is terrible (personal gripe)

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By Adam Reke
From Boulder, Colorado
Jul 22, 2014
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Climb Bocan and Eldo weeknights, and on the weekends hike into RMNP for a nice mellow sized amount of people. It's the best way to live life here!

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2014
Bocan
Adam Reke wrote:
Climb Bocan and Eldo weeknights, and on the weekends hike into RMNP for a nice mellow sized amount of people. It's the best way to live life here!


Indeed..get out a couple times at night in Bocan after work and it's pretty nice. Mosquitoes were KILLER last night though.

Been a while since I got up climbing in the park, but last time we tried spearhead 6 parties were on the route already at like 6am. Typically not a big deal until the last party shouted down to us asking if "they were on the north ridge". haha!!

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By Adam Reke
From Boulder, Colorado
Jul 22, 2014
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haha that's pretty funny!

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