2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The really cool and impressive boulder problem to the right of the start to Jackson's Wall. Basically, start on the right side of the little bouldering area with two crimps in the horizontal crack under a little roof. Make a few tough pulls up and left past another horizontal crack and small crimp, and wind up grappling with a nasty sloper. Fight your way to the top, and be impressed by Mr. Gill's skills.
If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line.
Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so.
Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!!
I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so).
The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer.
I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line.
I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations.