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BETA PHOTO: The big crack in the photo's center.
This is a fun crack, mostly hands and big hands, that goes through a small overhang near the bottom. George Bracksieck thought it was about 5.9, but it is definitely harder. He climbed it in 1975, so maybe opinions have changed. If it was longer, it would be classic. It is fun though.
This is the crack to the right of Case of the Fags
. You start with the first three bolts of It's Time for Change
, going to a large ledge. From the ledge, go up another crack on the right to a small ledge at the start of the main crack. To get down, climb down to the anchors on Left-Handed Tool
. It is best to belay at the top of the climb itself.
Bring a rack with some large cams. We used two #4 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots. We used some smaller cams as well but no nuts. I think the smallest cam needed is a #1 Camalot. The anchor can be made with #2 Camalots and maybe a #1.
At the start of the main crack.
By Kevin Presley
Mar 29, 2013
This doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the crack is pretty hard on the hands. I lost a considerable amount of my epidermis. I would recommend tape.
By George Bracksieck
Feb 15, 2014
I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock." Instead, we climbed what would later be named "Sun Spot."