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Achilles is a great new addition to Rifle that follows the lip of a huge, neglected overhang across from the Arsenal. Although this route is less direct than most routes, the movement, position, and opportunity to escape the crowds more than compensates for the traversing nature of the line. Not as hard as routes like Simply Read or Living in Fear, this route would be a great choice for anyone looking to tick their first 13d.
Scramble up some easy choss, and clip the first bolt on the overhang while standing on a slab. Establish on the wall, and follow a powerful series of underclings, cracks, pods, and edges until you are forced to traverse right for about 15 feet. At the end of the traverse you are rewarded with a rest below the crux. With strength fading and an unclippable draw dangling in your face, pull into double underclings, make a big crossover move, and gun for the arete. Make a couple of burly arete moves on slopers to reach the next rest, take a quick shake, and then punch through a devious boulder problem to the anchors.
This route is still cleaning up, so beware of loose rock- especially near the top.
Also, for those interested there is a bolted direct start and an abandoned project to the right.
This route is about 80 yards upstream from Fluff Boy, almost directly across the stream from the Arsenal.
Bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. May want kneepads. A 60 meter rope will get you back to earth from the anchor.
Danny Robertson on upper crux section of Achilles.
|By Peter Beal|
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 3, 2009
Another aspiring 14a brought back down to earth....